Best Wood glue

Would Elmers Carpenter Sure grip glue be suitable for a segmented salad bowl. Its not water proof and that is my concern.

Steven which is better Tite Bond or Gorilla. Any suggestions anybody

Gorilla or any other polyurethane glue holds very strongly but Tite-bond properly applied will produce a joint that is likely stronger than the surrounding wood. Since segmented turnings typically use dry segments moisture resistance is not an issue. Also, the mating surfaces are very smooth so gap filling is not an issue. What this all means is that either will do the job. Note that the color of the glue may be important to you as well. Joints are often made by applying glue and then rubbing the pieces back and forth while applying pressure until the glue grabs. This allows the rings to be made without everything slipping all over as they are assembled. I doubt if this works with Gorrilla glue and it also is very nasty stuff to get off of your hands and I think it is also considered to be more hazardous than glues like Titebond. Some turners complain about glues like Tite-bond (polyvinylacetate, I believe) letting the blocks creep a little. Creep is most likely the result of woods with differing expansion and contraction coefficients so care should be taken to select woods that are close in such characteristics if this is a concern. Try searching the net for this info. Billh

As a sailor, I've used several different glues for applications that require at least a degree of waterproof performance or at least water resistance. Personally I prefer Titebond III for several reasons. It has functioned as well for me as Gorilla Glue, but with better working characteristics. First, Gorilla is similar to epoxy when on one's skin. And, like epoxy, it is not advisable to use solvents to remove the glue, as doing so tends to increase the amount of the glue that penetrates the skin. Both epoxy and Gorilla are considered hazardous contact substances. Secondly, Gorilla foams as it sets, leaving a significant fillet of foam along the glue joint. It's not difficult to remove; only annoying to have to do so. Titebond III seems to be better in both regards, so I've been using it almost exclusively in applications where water exposure will be an issue.

Max

Hi Max,

Any idea how Titebond III works with exotics? I switched from System III Epoxy to Gorilla Glue because I was getting joint separation with the former and have been having success with the latter.

George

Bill, You mentioned something important, that segmented wood is dry. Gorilla glue is moisture activated and the instructions suggest wetting one of the surfaces. Another thing is that Gorilla glue foams and expands upon curing. Martin

I've used Elmer's Probond on beech, ebony, jatoba & teak, works great. Wipe off the teak with acetone first to get rid of the oils inside the teak. I'm not crazy about Titebond, takes a lot of scraping and sanding to get rid the foam it gobs out as it cures. Bart.

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I also had joint separation using Epoxy with exotics wood. The correctives I had from the West people was to use mechanical devices like screws, dowels and joinery after washing the freshly milled wood with acetone. I just receives an email from: Marc Bergdahl Technical Specialist Construction Products Division, Franklin International. He stated that : "This can be achieved by having the bonding surface freshly milled and than wiped with acetone just before applying the glue. It would also be a good idea to allow the glue to dry for a couple extra days before stressing the joint or finishing. He also mentioned that this Titebond lll was not recommended for continuous submersion in water or for use below the waterline." Even at that I will experiment with Titebond lll and find out how well it can stand the rigor of the coastal weather.

Does Titebond foam? Probond is a polyurethane glue like gorilla glue, if I recall correctly.

Derek

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Sticks real good but yup, too messy for my liking

Dunno, looks like regular yellow carpenter's glue to me. I use it to glue strips of ebony on top of teak etc., that are only about 2 mm thick and are subject to ridiculous amounts off stress/pressure but never had one come off. Take a quick peek at this:

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I've used it with zircote, cocobolo, and teak, all with success. I'm surprised that your epoxy joints failed, but I don't know what wood you were gluing. Gorilla, a polyurethane adhesive, will probably hold with most woods, and I suspect Titebond III will as well. That said, I've had no luck getting anything to bond well with lignum vitae--simply too waxy, even after treating with acetone.

Max

Hi Denis,

I used acetone before applying System III epoxy and some designs, like my laminated vases, would not easily be adapted to mechanical fasteners. Since the switch to Gorilla glue, I have not had any separation failures.

George

Hi Max, I had failures with ebony, satine, padauk, glued to cherry, pear, maple, holly. George

Gorilla glue and its equivalent are gaining popularity over here when doing boat repairs. I have used an equivalent glue on my boat and its still sound after several years.