Yeah, that's almost a perfect description of the way I do it, I was just pointing out that the idea of just using the chuck may not be an option for a guy that just has a faceplate. Chucks are expensive toys, after all- I used a faceplate for six months or so after I got my lathe. Hence the discussion about glue blanks and the like. Unless I've got it all wrong, and the OP just likes the glue block better than the chuck for aestetic or other reasons.
Tenons still waste wood. Glue blocks of scrap wood work great and can be re-used a number of times, depending on their thickness. I glue directly to the wood and do as much parting as possible with a thin parting tool. If it's a large platter or something, I use a hand saw , which is faster than one might imagine, and good exercise too.
there should
enough for a spur
I've found that the more turning I do, and the better the supply of wood I have, the less important the final size of the bowl becomes..
To make a gently curved bowl, for instance, as opposed to a straight sided bowl with rounded bottom, a lot more wood has to be "wasted"... I don't use face plates or screws, in favor of a tenon for the chuck which will usually be turned off.. I guess that's wasting wood, but it works for me..
Sort of a "that's why paint comes in more than one color" thing.. I know 2 people that use screws and face plates and when finishing the bowl bottom they actually ENLARGE the screw holes and put contrasting hardwood dowels in, sanded flush...
The only right way to do it is the way that works for you and that you like.. everything else is an option..
Mac
Harry... being lazy, I use the above method without the face plate, using the wood worm screw in the chuck... The hole needs to be about 3/4" deep but sometimes I'll make it up to 3" deep to use as a depth guide when hollowing..
Mac
One of the reasons for using a mortise! Seems counterintuitive that the same jaws holding inside versus outside could make the claim to "saving" depth, but since the standard bowl uses the outside (convex) portion of the wood as the bottom, it works out that way. The mortise takes advantage of the existing contour. \\ //
Of course, this thread has taken a life of its own. I like the ease of use and re-use provided by the pin chuck when roughing, as well as the safety it gives over drive centers and single screws. Also makes it a cinch to make the mortise, because the bowl will hang there on the pin chuck just perfectly.
Mac,
I thought this person 'wanted' to use a face plate. I rarely use a face plate for anything. I start my bowls between centers as I mentioned in an earlier post. I feel that I can get the wood balanced better than I could by just eyeballing center. I don't use a bandsaw either. Just knock the corners off with a chain saw.
I do like the idea of drilling a deep hole as a depth guide. I really hate making funnels.
Harry
I think that the OP was using a face place because they thought that it was the main way of holding work.. seems to me that if you're going to use a glue block anyway, the face plate is required because you don't have a lathe chuck?
I don't do many glue blocks, but the blocks that I have are turned to a tenon for the chuck on the "back" side.. Mac
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