Cracks in Cherry blanks

Were the walls almost vertical? That seems the most vulnerable to checking in my experience.

I don't coat, but do take care to spin the rough quickly at the last to throw as much water as possible. I then allow them to dry with plenty of air for several hours, until the surface water is gone before putting them on the shelf where they as in close quarters. They don't misbehave for me.

Matter of fact, had my first crack in a rough in a long while this morning - beech. First time turning it, may have left it too thick.

Denis, The cherry we use around here is difficult to dry without cracking....But, I manage with the no breeze, no heat, no sun, and keep them in a dark cool place, therory.... Give then 4 to 6 monthes and you should have no problem....

OBTW, when I used to dry on the shelf in the garage, I found that there was too much air movement in that setting, so I started putting them in a sealed room where there could be no movement of air..... It seemed to help........Cheer..... Ken from down the road.....

-- Ken & Debbie Bullock (Woodturners)

Woodturning videos at:

Fruit woods seem to be more sensitive. I think they hold more moisture and therefore shrink more which causes higher stresses and more cracking. The main thing is to slow drying as Ken Bullock mentioned.

Gentlemen: And after all this time, too! Lets try this all together. Repeat after me: "EL, DEE, DEE." *G*

Leif,

I swear, you must have an LDD fetish! I'd say there's something aberrant about this affinity, but that would presume a greater acquaintance than I can admit to having. Regardless, since you've always been so encouraging, I'll support you on this one!

LLL DDDDDD DDDDDD LLL DD DD DD DD LLL DD DD DD DD LLL DD DD DD DD LLL DD DD DD DD LLL DD DD DD DD LLLLLLLLL DDDDDD DDDDDD

-- Ali T. Borahan AliSails - Fine Wood Artistry & Custom Woodcrafts Web URL:

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Thanks, Ali. I wouldn't call it a fetish, exactly, just trying to be helpful to a guy who has a problem which is easily resolved. The others in the thread gave him the drying, complicated method leading to only a partial solution. This is only my attempt to give him a successful, alternative and make the answers more fair and balanced. (Now where have I heard that phrase before?) *G*

If you leave it in the log, especially with winter coming, you will lose but little. I generally cover the freshly cut end with a plastic bag between sessions, though shavings, which you will have in abundance, will work nicely. Good thing about cherry heartwood is that it does not seem vulnerable to fresh decay, even in summer.

When ready, take about an inch and a half off the end, then your pieces for turning, recover and repeat until the log is gone. Be especially aware of heart splits when you chose your cuts, and cut away until the smallest annual ring is about an inch or more in width on the rim to get best results. After that, you're on your own. I don't coat, just keep low to the floor in the cool basement until they are no longer clammy to the touch.

Within the limits of your design, you might want to avoid going too thick (>8-10% of diameter) or making the walls too vertical. Either seem to make the blank more prone to pulling apart.

Phil,

I would suggest taking the trunk in the longest sections possible. (the whole 15' if you can manage) Cherry has an affection for splitting at the ends, so use a generous coating of anchorseal (or equivalent) at the cuts. The longer your pieces are, the more time you'll have to rough good wood. Take the opportunity and don't fret if you lose some. Cherry is wonderful to turn.

Mike

Yes. If you leave it round, it will definitely crack much more than if it is half-round. And more length is better for reduced overall amount of end-checking.