Roughing gouge for bowl blanks?

Until I bought a large roughing gouge, I regularly used my roughing gouge for the outside of bowl blanks. They were all face grain blanks, though I doubt that matters.

All the cautions I've heard about roughing gouges seem to aply to the inside vuts, although most are not explicitly stated in those terms. I've heard others say it can be used inside as well, but I would definitely not recommend that to a new turner.

Wet or seasoned will make a difference in how easily the wood cuts. I've ntced little other difference in my couple years turning - you're making the same cuts in the same way.

Jim

RoyFek43 wrote:

Yes, but not the same way. I would recommend you rough bottom to rim along centerline, not attempting to "ride the bevel" until the piece is reasonably circular, keeping the toolrest close, as always, so as not to give away leverage. Take a peek at my page to see a roughing sequence I use which takes advantage of big iron without fear. Since I don't rough out from the headstock, I'll have to say your initial gouge presentation should resemble a backward "C"with slow transition to a near "U" - cutting on the skewed upper portion - as you begin the final surfacing.

Roy the best answer to "using a roughing gouge to turn down a bowl blank" is "yeah, sort of." A bowl gouge is a lot better, IMHO, but a roughing gouge can be used. I like a large Oland tool in either case. See my web site for some hints on roughing. Green wood is easier to rough than is dry. The cuts tend to be cleaner and are a lot cooler. If the dust is bothering you, wear a dust mask. I know it sounds simple but many woods irritate various people. A dust mask helps a lot. Besides, your lungs will like you for it.

Hi Roy, A roughing gouge is traversed along the toolrest axially, parallel to the lathe bed to rough out of round spindle stock. To bring out of round, bowl blanks into round and actually begin shaping them to the usual bowl form a bowl gouge is best. It is traversed diagonally along a toolrest set at an angle to the blank's tailstock face, Flute leading and bevel not rubbing. At first you make very short bouncy cuts out into space, but as more of the corner is removed (rounded) and you approach the blank's head stock end the bevel can rub and things begin to smooth out. Now the blank is round and already has a 'bowl shape' without going thru an intermediate cylinder phase. HTH, Arch

p.s. Roy, if you are wondering, "wottenhell is he saying?" maybe somebody will explain more clearly. :) A.

Fortiter,

The page is up, Arch. Pictures make a lot of words more meaningful.

Roy

The simple answer is yes a roughing gouge can be used if you want to. You could also use a skew if you felt so inclined!!!!! The correct answer is no, the roughing gouge is not designed for bowl work (cross grain work). It is designed for parallel grain work ie spindle type work where the grain direction runs parallel to the bed of the lathe. The roughing gouge is a forged tool as opposed to a bowl gouge which is milled from a round bar. Consequently the bowl gouge is a more substantial tool with a stronger tang going into a longer handle than the roughing gouge has. The rouging gouge is usually a square grind whereas a bowl gouge usually has the wings ground back making it safer to use on the internal curve of a bowl. Why use a roughing gouge when there are bowl gouges designed for the job?

Roy

I could not agree with Mark more there is simply no safer or more effective tool to use on cross grained or face plate work than a deep fluted gouge milled from solid steel bar. It is not generally called a bowl gouge with out good reason.

Whilst I personally feel it is not best practice to use a spindle tool on a cross grained piece. The reverse however does hold true and it is perfectly safe to use a bowl gouge on a spindle and in fact can be a very efficient roughing tool when there are branches coming out of the log being turned at right angles to the normal alignment of grain.

Gregory Moreton RPT

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I would dare to suggest that if the dust is bothering you, it is too late to start thinking about putting on a dust mask. Damage will have already been done. Try to get into the habit of putting it on as soon as (if not before) you pick up a tool. Even if you have taken a break from the workshop, fine dust can still be lingering in the air when you return and it is this fine (often unseen) dust that can cause most damage.