Duplicator

On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 12:25:00 -0600, Bob S. wrote (in message ):

A kind of a poor man's duplicator is just a template or pattern of the spindle you want to make, mounted opposite the spindle . What you will have is your tool rest on one side of the spindle - nearest you... and on the other side of the spindle is your pattern. Actually, it is the "negative" of your pattern. Call it a template, if you like. A peak in the pattern is a groove in your spindle, and a low area in your pattern corresponds to a high point on the spindle. The pattern shows you where to cut and where not to cut, and how deep. Use an outside caliper and your parting tool to cut reference points on your spindle at various places like the end tenons and a couple of places near the middle.

Your pattern is mounted just fractions of an inch from your spindle, and you now have some target-depth grooves cut with your parting tool, corresponding to certain points on the pattern. I am not skilled enough to use just a skew to do all my spindle shaping, so I must resort to the use of various scrapers for the fine shaping work. Watching the spindle as wood is removed from it, and observing the gap between the spindle and the pattern as I work, I just sort of cut away anything that does not look like the pattern.

You need to make the pattern of something durable like sheet metal - maybe bash out a piece of stovepipe or a section of your neighbor's roof gutter. Then the pattern needs to be mounted on a stand which will hold the pattern clode to the target spindle. You need to be able to move the stand around, to see how the pattern fits the target spindle from time to time. I learned that the best time to try fitting the template to the target spindle is when the spindle is not turning. The stand has to be mounted in such a way that the lathe vibration does not make the pattern dance around.

I hope this helps a little. Further, I hope the Turners here do not think me daft. (in this matter, anyway)

tom koehler

snipe of an outstanding explanation.......

Tom,

That is certainly a clear explanation of "How to do it". I could visualize what you were saying and I will give that a try. I made up enough blanks to practice with but the method you describe sounds like I won't need all of them.

I appreciate you taking the time and effort to explain the procedure.

Happy Holidays,

Bob S,

Also, remember that the new spindles do not have to be exact. When they are in place, no one will be able to hold one up to another for comparison.

Now let me tell you how I do this kind of job. I have a laser pointer mounted to my headstock on a parallelogram linkage. The laser beam is vertical, and can be moved over various parts of the spindle I am doing. I start by mounting a good spindle between centers, I point the laser at a spot that I want to reproduce, i.e. the botom of a "V" or cove, or the top of a curve. I then mount each of my new pieces between centers, one at a time, of course, and turn the feature to match the laser setting. Then, back to the sample spindle, select another salient point, and gop through the sequence again.

After you've got all the main diameters and positions established, it is very easy to go back and fair in the joining curves.

I think this is faster than working from a template--you don't have to keep checking. You can cut directly to the size and position indicated by the laser.

BTW, if you go this route, keep the laser pointer around. You will find many uses for it, which I will not go into here. This idea got me "Tip of the Year" award from AAW a few years back. I won a cap.

Leo,

That's one helluva of an idea... I just checked the AAW site trying to find a reference to this (and maybe a picture) but apparently they don't have an archive for Tips that I could find. Do you know of any site that may have a picture or a drawing of your "parallelogram linkage" ? I just can't get my mind wrapped around how this works.

Bob S.

"Bob S." wrote: (clip) I just checked the AAW site trying to

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Bob, I don't recall sending them any pictures--I don't think I even owned a digital camera back then. I'll be happy to send a couple of shots that I have in my file--is the e-mail address in your post good?

Leo,

Just sent you an email.

Thank you,

Bob S.

"Bob S." wrote: Just sent you an email. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Got it, and the pictures are in the mail, along with a wordy explanation. If anyone else wants to see them, just ask, and make sure I have a valid e-mail address to send to.

On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 20:52:53 -0600, Leo Lichtman wrote (in message ):

Please include me, for a set of pictures. Thank you. my address is good, just remove nospam two times, and remove invalid once. What is left is a conventional address. tvkoehler at frontiernet net

Leo,

Thanks for the pictures and the explanation. That is a great idea.

Bob S.

"tom koehler" wrote: Please include me, for a set of pictures. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Done. I think I decoded your address properly.

Please include me, Leo. in particular any details of your linkage setup.

My email address is ok as is. Lots of spam gets through, but maybe if I live long enough, some happy day one of those fifty million dollar deals from Nigeria will be legitimate and they will just send me my share.

I wish you could include a pic of you wearing that expensive AAW cap while turning on your expensive lathe. :)

Thanks for all you do for us on rcw. Happy holidays and I hope all goes well at your house.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

On Mon, 22 Dec 2008 0:35:09 -0600, Leo Lichtman wrote (in message ):

you did. got it. Thank you very much. tom koehler

Hi, Would like a copy. Address is: skilphil at zweb dot co dot za Thanks

Phil

Would you mind adding me to the list? Just delete (REMOVE) from the email and it's good. Thanks.