Getting a handle on our tools

Natural materials, generous curves to fit my large hands, and naked.

Come to think of it, that's not bad for tool handles, either.

"Arch" wrote: (clip) ugly-nice (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ The current "in" term for that is "shabby chic."

Wood handles are quite comfortable and can be weighted by boring holes in the ends.

Derek

I hope that isn't the same a shabby chick... lol

I'm a turning peasant... one of my most used tools is a 3/4" x 14" hex bolt drilled to fit 1/4" HSS bits... nice weight and balance and the duct tape handle is comfortable.. Sort of intimidating to unwelcome guests, too.. *g*

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Keep in mind George is in for the winter. Remember the snow picture?

TomNie

I am sort of with Mac. My most used tool for faceplate work is a 1/4" Oland tool. That is, a 1/4" HSS bit in a 5/8" cold rolled steel shaft, with a turned wood handle. I copied a commercial handle that I liked but can not see the use of a ferule (do not bother to reply about its stopping splitting and the like, I have heard them all) and I like the handle to be unfinished. On the other hand my 1/2" roughing tool is a 1/2" HSS bit in a piece of 3/4" galvanized pipe with duck tape around the handle. Works great. My principle set of hollowing tools uses hand braces made of plumbing fittings. Also work great.

Darrell, you are not sufficiently obscessed with the esthetics of your tools, and excessively obscessed with the esthetics of your turnings.

Hello Darrell,

Could you elaborate a bit more on : " My principle set of hollowing tools uses hand braces made of plumbing fittings."

bernie feinerman

Can't resist: Wouldn't a hole reduce the weight?

I know you mean that you then fill the hole with lead shot, a bolt, etc. but maybe someone doesn't.

Alan

You're right! You put lead shot in the hole and then cap it with a dowel or plug, leaving room for the shop to move around slightly.

Derek

I don't get too excited about the handle other than I like it to be a reasonable size. I have made them from pine to hardwood and I have drilled and filled some with lead shot. I don't think I have ever picked one of them up or a commercially handled tool and said, "Wow, is that ever a great handle!". I just don't think I care. I think my handles must be fairly good since I have never had a catch with the handle portion of the tool! I haven't bothered to finish any of mine even though I thought it might make them prettier. But then, my workbench is layers of MDF covered with throw-away hard-board not laminated maple on edge with 317 coats of gloss finish.

billh

Wow! Now that's a big handle!! *G*

Leif

Sorry, I missed whoever wanted to know about the arm brace handle for hollowing tools. There is a fairly poor explanation on my web page under making a swan neck tool

Can't understand the weighting. It probably has something to do with the way I cut, where the tool is firm to the rest, and rarely extends more than an inch or two before I move in closer. To me it's just weight I have to bear. I'm always happy when I put down the big gouge

Darrell,

Love your designer tools!

Looking forward to the update.

TomNie

I feel that someone has to balance out the furniture quality jigs and things that Ken Vaughn makes... I'm just doing my part to keep the cosmic field in balance... *g*

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

My guess isn't for weight or mass, but balance?

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

I make numerous tool handles (or handled tools, such as mallets). I generally don't bother to re-handle commercial tools, unless said tools break their handles, or I ever come into some of that "copious spare time" which I now regard as about as likely as the winning lottery ticket (and on that, I figure the odds of it blowing in my truck window are about as good as the odds of buying it, and a lot cheaper).

I do sometimes bother to strip finish from factory handles. Shiny handles make blisters, IME. I like a finish of ~1/3 BLO and 2/3 Butcher's bowling alley wax (clear). This is effectively equivalent to

I'll see if I can get a picture of the tool rack I finally made - an angled shelf at least as long (or slightly longer) than your longest tool/gouge/etc that will be in it (which prevents cutting yourself on the tips unless you try hard), with dividers and lip to hold them in place, tips-up, visible, ready to use. Not my idea, just my implementation, and seems better to me than some of the other suggestions in the "corral" thread, or my usual "lay them across the bed of the lathe".