gluing

I would go with the socket and tenon strategy: since you will have the joint at the base of the cup. there is too small a glue surface area to rely on flat faces, IMO

Kip Powers Rogers, AR

I'd suggest flaring out the top of the stem to no less than 1/2" to give an adequate glue joint. That area would have a similar profile to a golf tee. You can gain some strength and facilitate alignment by drilling a

1/8" hole into the top of the stem, and turning a 1/8" round tenon at the bottom of the goblet's bowl to fit in the hole. Glue it with yellow carpenter's glue, that is stronger than the wood itself. Preventing glue squeezeout is tricky, you only need to spread a thin layer on each surface. If you turn the maple bowl (top) first, then glue it on while the stock for the stem is still chucked in the lathe, you can make some cleanup cuts with a skew or pyramid tool to make it look good. That would be BEFORE you thin out the stem to final thickness. Having tailstock support at the top of the goblet would be a great help for the finishing cuts--such as a plug to fit the top rim, with a center hole for the tailstock's point to go into. This setup will also allow you to clamp the glue joint with the tailstock.

Ken Grunke Coulee Region Woodturners

As lathe operators, the tenon method seems best, but the recommended PVA (wood glue) may not be the best, as it's sensitive to moisture, heat and acid. I'd do non-water-soluble plastic types like epoxy or urethane, which would make a "dowel" joint with a length of brazing rod possible. The less flexible glues shouldn't be a problem if both pieces are long-grained, and you would be free to work to whatever diameter you're comfortable with.

You need a trip up north to get some cherry.

Got some down here in a stack of 'free firewood'. I just didn't feel like gloating at the time. But I do now. :-)

BTW, the guy who cut down the cherry saplings has also asked me to take the wood from two HUGE oaks when he cuts them this fall and has offered to let me take a cherry stump he cut last year.

He left a stump about 4' tall and 3' dia. I gotta get hold of a gas chainsaw pretty darned soon ... all I have is a stinky electric one. Once I do, I predict a lot of pretty bowls, pens, watches and such lie in my near future.

Bill

A suggestion for Bill. When you get your chainsaw, invest in a ripping chain. It is SO MUCH EASIER on both you and the saw. Not to mention a ripping chain goes much better through the wood than the standard crosscut chain.

-Kev>

That's interesting. I'd never heard of such a beast. I'll be certain to ask about it. Can you name a store where this is available? I've had chainsaws in the past (when you lose a house to divorce, lots of other things turn up missing, too) but never noticed anything marked "ripping" on the replacement chain racks.

Bill

Hello Bill, One of several ways that hand saws can be categorized is crosscut and rip. A crosscut saw is used to cut across the grain and is probably the most common and a rip saw is for cutting with the grain of the wood. The same holds true for chainsaws. The default chain with chainsaws is most probably a crosscut. It came with my 20+ year old Stihl. I had a local shop do a tune up on my saw as it had sat unused for almost 8 years and when finished picked up a ripping chain. The easiest method I have found to use a ripping chain is to lay the log on its side. Then at about a 45 degree angle cut into the log. I trim off a bit on each side removing the bark and perhaps an inch or so of sapwood. Then I make a cut about 2 iches to each side of the middle in hopes of removing all the pit. These two cuts are NOT done all the way to the end. I then complete as many cuts as possible leaving planks of the desired width.

A fine set of pics illustrating this technique is available on Bill's page at:

-kevin