hollowing tools

Randy Got to the "make a tool" section and then "make a swan neck tool" and head for the bottom. I just put the pictures up a day or so ago.

Or you could bend flatbar.

Never mind Rube Goldberg, I felt like an old issue of Mechanics Illustrated as I made the arm brace. I think they could have you build an entire workshop from the plumbing section of the hardware store.

True, flat bar would work but if I use rod, I can easily adapt it to taking a shaft with a simple piece of tubing. I suppose I could fit a piece of tubing over the flat bar for that matter. Decisions, decisions. Maybe I will just leave well enough alone, but not likely :-)

And the problem with the plumbing section is...........

My dad used to have all those old books from the 40's, Popular Mechanics ect. They all had the " you to can build an automatic welder with a sewing machine motor and a vacum cleaner." I used to read those over and over. I guess that is why I can't pass up books on Jigs and fixures or Darrells site with his bending press and tool makeing ' " That you to can build hollowing equipment with some steel and the floor jack from your car"

Bruce

I built a similar swan neck hollowing tool (similar to the one on Darrell's website). About the only difference in technique is that I didn't use a press and jack to do the bending. Instead I heated and forged it with a hammer. The advantage to Darrell's method is there are no tool marks. When you beat the shaft with a hammer like I did, then it leaves a bunch of dents. But I must say that it is a lot more fun my way because you get to beat the heck out of something on an anvil with a large hammer :-) I also think it would be fun doing it Darrell's way so you could build a press that could get reused.

On my swan neck tool, I set it up to take a ProForme hollowing tip. So I had to drill out the end and also tap a hole so that it would take a set screw. I used stainless steel for the shaft. Next time I'll use annealed cold roll steel since stainless is really hard to drill and tap. But it sure is nice on your hands since it does not rub off when you use it. But you might have a different opinion.

Jeff Jilg Austin, Texas

I have a number of items that are black iron. They stay clean and don't rust by rubbing them with Renaissance microcrystalline wax. It lasts many times longer than Johnson's Paste wax.

Derek

Thanks for the tip Derek. I might try that on the next tool. Someone also told me it's pretty cheap to get items chromed "silver" or chromed "black". I'm going to look into that too. The easy thing is to wax it since I have some Renaissance wax already.

Jeff

I have made a buffing system which I can use in my Vicmarc lathe and buff all the tools I make, this produces a very smooth polished surface that maintains its condition well especially with wax as the last process and the tools slide better on the toolrest.