hollowing tools

Hi all here is a question for those who use the Ellsworth style hollowing tools. I have a straight tool and a "bent" or 45 degree tool in 3/8" and

1/2" sizes and 5/8" and 3/4" straight tools. Making 5/8" and 3/4" bent tools would only take 10 minutes but I like to turn smaller pieces and have not needed them. The question is two fold. 1) is it worth making a 1/2" and/or 5/8" hooked or swan neck tool? 2) I have straight handles. Is it worth making an arm brace handle? I hope to have a personal answer soon. I made a 1/2" swan neck tool last night and will try to use it this morning. I also made an arm brace for it. Opinions would let me know if it is worth putting up on the web page, especially since I had to make a hydraulic press to do the bends. No real sweat but it did take an hour or two. Opinions would help.
Reply to
Darrell Feltmate
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I for one would like to see it on your web site. Even just to see how you did it. I have not gotten into makeing tools, but I have found alot of usefull infromation there and go there often.

Reply to
Bruce Ferguson

I think this info would be appreciated (like the rest of your site is) - at least by me. I have an Oland tool that I made based on your info.

Thanks,

Derek

Reply to
Derek Hartzell

Hi Darrell, I would like to see these added to your Web page. I enjoy looking at how you do things. I have made a few tools, but they don't all work. I made a small diameter swan neck tool, and it vibrated too much to use. (I forget what diameter it was now). I do appreciate your Web page, and look at it now and again. Thanks, Don Hart

Reply to
F Donald Hart

Reply to
Denis Marier

Darrell,

I think it would be a great addition to your site. I have made 3/4" swan neck tools but I bent them with a torch with the bar stock held in a vice. I used a 36" piece of pipe to slip over the 3/4" stock to aide in bending. I used mapp gas in my hand held torch.

Good luck,

Craig in AZ

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Reply to
cm

Darrell,

Make sure your swan neck tool is configured so that the cutting tip is in line with the centerline of the straight part of the tool shaft. That way you will not feel rotational forces so long as the straight part of the shaft is kept on the tool rest. The Stewart and Jordan tools are like this, but the Sorbys are not. The Sorbys have the cutting edge too far to the left and there are rotational forces as a result. This is especially important if you're going to use an arm brace. Personally I like the gated systems (Jamieson et.al.,) as I feel they're more safe. I never forgot that a friend of mine got a catch inside a hollow vessel using an armbrace handle and dislocated his shoulder. Using a gated system prevents any such mishap.

-Jim Gott- San Jose, CA

Reply to
Jim Gott

Darrell, Anything that you put up on your site will be of help to all of us.

I've used a 'Z' shaped 'pistol grip' handle made from 45 deg. 1/2 in. pipe couplings and nipples to prevent inserted bit _CUTTERS_ from rotating. Ugly? yes, but it worked. I put a cupped arm brace on the long leg (a 10 in, nipple) of the Z but I preferred to just hold it against my body. I made sure that my forearm could escape from the cup. ;) Short top handles (cold chisel holders from HD) also help control rotation. Can you think of a simple device, shop made or adapted from some kind of hardware fixture, to adjust the inserted bit angle? I've used the 45 deg. bit 'backwards' to get under the rim and top of a hollow form. BTW, can you bend a HSS bit? I see them advertised. Keep those good lessons on your webpage coming. Cheaper than a book, and better. Thanks, Arch

Fortiter,

Reply to
Arch

Thanks for all the replies. The start of the hollowing tool page is up under "Make a Tool." Be warned, I have wanted an excuse for a hydraulic press for a while now. On the other hand, making it was easy.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Denis Bonjour. The problem with a drill slipping on a 45 degree hole is that you are attempting to drill a round surface at an angle. It is much easier to drill a level surface parallel to the ground. So first grind a flat on the end of the rod at 45 degrees. The flat does not have to be large, just big enough for a good start with the drill center. 1/8" to

1/4" should be great. If this does not make sense I can put a picture up on the web site.
Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Là maith, Darrell, Thanks I appreciate the information.

Reply to
Denis Marier

Denis, I think Darrell's method is best for making an angled hollowing tool. Another way for starting a true hole at an angle in metal without grinding a flat is to begin with a small end mill. Arch

Fortiter,

Reply to
Arch

Thanks Arch, Its always a good idea to have some basic two flutes end mills in the shop.

Reply to
Denis Marier

Arch I put up a picture of an arm brace with a couple of 90 degree bends and I also put up a picture of an easily adjustable angle for a cutting tip. I am a little embarrassed about this one but it works well. I am not sure about bending HSS. It can be broken fairly easily.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Thanks Darrell for the pics of your adjustable hollowing CUTTER. A suggestion for the plumber's hollowing system: Try a 5.0 in. nipple instead of the 2.5 in. and turn a sleeve with coved finger grips to fit over it. Also try 45 deg. elbows to slant the handle. On the 12 in. arm try replacing the arm brace with a turned paddle shaped sleeve glued over the nipple to hold against your body & armpit.

While you are plumbing and thinking try this ugly abomination for restraining a long shaft hollower. Use a pipe nipple as a tool post and various sized T's and reducers. The toolshaft goes thru the T's horizontal legs, and the vertical leg is screwed on the post just loose enough to swivel.

Sorry I don't have a camera, even if it is a blessing for rcw. If you try this mess and put up on your site, please don't send me a bill for plumbing and photography, :) Keep warm & well, Arch

Fortiter,

Reply to
Arch

Just a note For those who wish to make thier own hollowing tools we can supply you with the complete cutting head only so you can make up your own shafts and configurations. The head simply fits into a 5/16" hole held with either locktite or a grub screw. A small flat is necessary on top of the shaft. Heads available from our web site or from Craft supplies USA

Keep up the good work

-- Cheers Ken Port Tool Designer

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Reply to
Ken Port

Darrell, that arm brace is just TOO funny! But what the heck....if it works, go for it. But since you are already adept at bending, why not just make the arm-brace from regular steel rod?

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

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Reply to
Peter Teubel

Peter I likely will make a brace from regular rod, but I had these parts handy and it was quick. Besides which, I wanted something people could duplicate with little trouble.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Good Day Folks

I'm a newbie to turning and I now understand why it's called the addiction.

I'm learning a lot listening and Darrell's web site gets a daily visit. My question is where on the web site are the pictures of the arm brace and adjustable angle for a cutting tip.

Thanx for all the info

RandyD

Reply to
rd

Thanx Darrell

I got the pics!

Good Job.

I'm turning on a budget and your page is great ! I'm gonna try the Oland tool as soon as I save a few bucks.

Thanx for all the great info.

Randyd

Reply to
rd

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