How the meaning of the word "catch" changes

When I was a kid, "Catch!" meant someone was throwing something TO me. ("duck!" meant something to be avoided was coming AT me.)

As an adult learning to snow ski, the word "catch" combined with "outside edge" meant I was the one about to be thrown. Also learned what a "face plant" is. "DUCK! usually meant a low branch.

Recently I learned that a "catch" can mean that somethings is being thrown AT me. Now the word does explain WHAT happened, but it would seem that thinking "DUCK!" would be more useful than thinking "Catch!" when one occurs.

This learning experience happened on an inch and a quarter diameter of pine.

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I can only imagine what it would be like on a 10, 12 or 18 inch bowl. I know that when center turning, a knot, which is end grain, can raise hell roughing to round. Working with all end grain just seems a little scary

Learned that some new turning tools come with a coat of clear lacquer on them and it affects how the edge removes wood. Also learned that they don't come sharp. They come semi-sort-of-sharp. Once sharpened like I sharpen my bench chisels a plane irons, they remove wood much faster and easier AND leave a smooth surface behind.

Up to now, it was the tool that was dangerous. Now it's the wood.

There's a lot to learn about this turning thing.

But it sure is addictive.

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b
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Hey, Charlie, you're learning VERY quickly... must be all the other woodwork you 've done.. Personally, I didn't know how sharp my chisels WERN'T until my wife sharpened them... I'm a sharpening fanatic now and just got a set of diamond hones...

Oh, have I mentioned that turning is addictive and causes you to spend money??

mac

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mac davis

Reply to
Bob Lewis

If you're lucky, they just go rolling off, like a trap shooting rabbit and are usually are still ok to turn. The scary ones for me are when you're turning something like a bowl out of punky wood and the sucker fragements and explodes. Generally if they just come out of the chuck, it's not a big deal. End grain depends on the wood- some you can barely tell the difference (maple or birch) and some are nearly impossible to hollow (oak)

Yep, now you've gotta get yourself a chuck. Here's your reason- you need it to make that question mark. You'll have to make a hollow form, then cut a cross section from it with a bandsaw and finish it up with an alternate axis. You'll find that there are only so many things you can do between centers, and having one end of the work free to work with opens a whole new world of possibilities.

Reply to
Prometheus

Several chucks are on my list 1. 4 jaw - synchroed to center that'll go from 1/4" to maybe 1 1/4" I.D. for turning drawer pulls and the like 2. jacobs type chuck 1/2" capacity for boring and holding smaller stuff for end turning 3. an eccentric chuck for doing some weird "how the hell is that done?" turning

Recomendations - I'm using a JET midi with #2 MT?

charlie b

Reply to
charlie b

Nova scroll chuck with pin jaws will do one and two. And much more, besides.

For eccentric stuff between centers, move your points at either and/or both ends as required.

Reply to
George

Since we'll all recommend the chuck that we use, I'll throw my 2 cents in...

Consider Oneway, either the Talon or Stronghold... probably the Talon for your use.. (afaik, you have a unimat MINI, right?)

Bite the bullet and get the Jumbo jaws with it, for about $85...

The jumbo jaws will hold a pretty good range of sizes in the "conventional" setup, and using the rubber bumpers screwed on the chuck INSTEAD of jaws, you can hold work down to 1/2".....

Check out ebay under Shopsmith.. you can pick up a 1/2" chuck for a few bucks and then order a taper for your head/tail stock from Shopsmith for about $12...

mac

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Reply to
mac davis

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