Is there an easier way to rough out interior endgrain?

I'm having trouble seeing that as a problem, but maybe it's because I usually am using bits that are the size of the drill chuck or larger..

With a 2" forstner and the chuck, I bottom out at about 6 or 7", I guess... I know that I usually stop before the chuck is in more than an inch or so because I don't do many deep pieces.. You can get extensions for forstners that are like the ones for drill bits, but they have to be for the larger sizes, too.. Mac

Hi Arch,

If you are working within the limits of a standard Stewart or similar armbrace, there is nothing that hollows endgrain faster and easier the Soren Berger's hollowing tool, he calls it the Viking tool. If you already have the armbrace, or any boring bar, you just need the tip. After I wore out my first Viking tip I ground my own from the shank of a

5/16 or 8mm allen wrench. That's a good size to fit in the end of the Stewart straight shank. The steel in allen wrenches is good stuff, and it hogs out end grain at a seriously rapid rate. You don't need a large pilot hole, either. My current deep drill is only 3/8", so that's an easy pilot hole to make. I use the tip only in the straight shank and I don't bother with it for hollow forms because I am working through a 1" hole, but for end grain vessels with a wider mouth the Viking style tip really makes a big hole in a hurry.

-mike paulson, fort collins, co

Not to portray myself as someone who really understands what he's talking about. I will try answering your questions/wonderings, although I think you know most of the answers - this isn't cynical just my view.

1. Does it work for the boring machinist? Yes I guess it does, why would something that works on metal not work on wood (excluding threading softwood)
2. Yes, any mechanical appendage that takes the load of your back will be easier to use (as long as it itself is of good quality)
3. I am considering - not for boring especialy but buying and attaching a crossslide on my woodturning lathe is a thought for adavanced and the next level (doing more accurate work by the power of the jig)
4. Cautions: if you build it by yourself - you know what can happen, just make sure that everything is tight and strong, slower speeds at first, until you are comfortable that nothing will snap/break/detach - especialy in the tool holder, and then down from there...
5. The cross slide you mentioned seems OK, providing for all the obvious problem (fit, rising to the correct height, tool holder which you need to make - do not rely on the vice itself for that...). And although you ask not to be turned to the turning accesory suppliers I suggest that you look at this new accessory from Eli Avisera (it is expensive but seems to be what you want, and more)
   formatting link
   Make a lot of shavings, and don't listen to all the people who tell you not to experiment!

Thanks to all of you for some much better suggestions and comments about the small turning problem I raised. I'm pleased to have had a part, but of course I realize that my way of contributing is not for everyone here and although not intentional might be misunderstood as arrogance. I hope not.

"The half of knowledge is to know where to find knowledge". My peculiar way of asking questions, sometimes knowing a possible answer, is to prod others to offer better answers for discussion. It's just the way I was taught and we all try to emulate the teachers we respected. Anyway, the 'plonk button' works on most computers. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter