If you want to see one in action, Mike Mahoney has a DVD out that shows it being used. Craft Supplies has it, and Mike has it on his web site.I hope to have one out later this year. I have a number of posts about it here about using it.
I have the complete set of inboard coring knives (large, medium, and small) and for 98% of the cores I take, I use the 2 smallest radius blades on the small and medium blade sets.
For first attempts, use some softer green wood, not something like black locust, and don't try anything over about 10 inches in diameter. The blade should feed with little pressure. The amount of pressure (push) determines how thick of a shaving you will take off, On a big bowl you don't want a lot of pressure. Always keep some, but not a lot pressure on the handle pulling it towards you. This pressure helps the blade to almost self feed. If you are having to force it, something is wrong (shavings over the tip after clearing, drift is causing it to bind, the cut isn;t smooth and the bumps on the core or wall are makine it bind. A hot blade and or steam is a good indicator of this).As the blade goes in, it wants to track toward the outside of the bowl. All of the coring systems do this, but since this isn't on a fixed radius, it wants to drift more than the others. Pulling on the handle helps to counter this drift. Make a slip collar to go around the tool post so that the cutter will be at center height without having to fiddle with it each time you core. Having the cutter at center height is VERY important.
If you are ever headed down I-5 to Oregon, look me up, I'm in Eugene and would love to help. Any more questions, let me know.
robo hippy