Lathe Spindle Taps

Damn, I hope you're right about the "they now have all the popular sizes in quantity".... I've had a 1-8 spindle tap on backorder for months and I'm moving on October

12...

Mac

Follow up for those interested: I exchanged emails with J.R. at Beall and found that while he had a good supply of the 1 1/4" x 8 taps, the other sizes were not available.. He hoped to have them within a month.. Mac

Strange, when I got mine at MSC several years ago they had no problems. Bought the cheapest one they had and it still works great. But then they are metal taps but still do excellent in wood. Maybe they should order from MSC.

sorry about the mis-info. I guess I read more into a conversation than was there :(

ENCO

is a good source for machine tools like taps. and these taps often go very cheaply on e-bay.

If you don't mind me asking, when would you use the tap? For threading a blank on to the spindle shaft for bowl turning, maybe? Better than a chuck? Thanks..

Thanks, Darrell.. Makes perfect sense now that you explained it.. An endless supply of faceplates and glue blocks.. That is definitely a money saving handy lathe accessory!! -Jim..

I use a lot of vacuum chucks and get tired of gluing a nut in each one...

I'm also looking for an economical way to make chucks so that folks could buy them when starting into vacuum chucking without having to pay big bucks for them..

Also, for scrap blocks, jigs, etc...

Mac

Why not make them to be held in your chuck? Sort of like making your fixtures for flat work to fit the Workmate?

I have 2 that do just that, but they're a PITA to use... both have vacuum line and a rubber gasket that fits the Talon jaws but you have to be really careful to get it sealed or you lose vacuum...

Mac

True, Bill But when I think the threads are getting loose, I just heave that glue block and make another. I find the maple ones last a long, long, time.

I'm new and just following this 'tap' root...(ooah), I'm wondering what the differences are between the Beal wood taps and a general 'bottom tap'? Is it just a difference in the number of lead threads tapered and/or the shank diameter? What would be the best way to hold the tap and wood piece -assuming the piece is a small glue block type size and shape (approx. 3 inches)? Could you still use the wood tap for steel in a pinch? I see the price of a wood tap is about 42% more than a regular bottom tap (1" - 8 NC). Has anyone tried both and which do you like?

thanks... june, in Denver

Darrell Feltmate wrote:

As to holding, I believe that Beall recommends chucking the piece of wood and using a tail stock chuck for the tap, slowly turning the work while advancing the tail stock?

Mac

Most taps have - at the end - a general taper. That's so the first few cuts just take a smidge of a cut. As you enter the hole, the cuts get deeper. So after about 3-4 turns the threads are at the normal depth.

The problem is - what do you do with a blind hole? That is, what if you have a hole cut into wood, and it does not go all the way thru?

The above tap will not make a full thread at the bottom of the hole. That's why you use a bottom tap. It has full threads at the bottom.

It's hard to use a bottom tap in a hole with no threads. So you start with a normal tap, and then finish with a bottom tap.

Here's a good URL I found, in addition to Darrell's previously mentioned, that was very helpful on this subject.. -Jim