Making handles - ferrels (sp?)

Recently I received a few nice chunks of wood from the wife's co-worker. Not sure what it is but it is heavier-than-expected even though green. I figure it would make some good handles. The question- where can I get/what can I use for the farrell (sic)? Making them myself is a first choice. I thought some copper tubing would be a good choice but fear it will look just a bit dare I say, crappy when it is bent over to cover the very end of the handle. However if the purpose of a farrell is to keep the wood from splitting out then perhaps copper tubing would work.

Reply to
Kevin
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copper water pipe works fine. if you want the ferrule to cover the end use an end cap- the thing a plumber solders on the end of a pipe to close it off. get the metal clean inside (a little sandpaper works great) and a tight fit and a drop of CA glue works well.

Reply to
bridger

I use brass compression rings as ferrules, but I'd also like to plug woods like elm, yellow birch, or hop-hornbeam as handles. They don't split easily, and that's really what you want, not just heavy. For weight, make the sections you don't grip heavy, or fill 'em with shot and cap 'em.

Reply to
George

When I make handles, I always drill the tool insert end first - this allows you to use the hole as a mounting point with your live center.

As far as ferules - you can use the brass nuts that are used for natural gas lines - these can actually be rounded off after they are compressed onto the receiving end of the tool. Just use an old skew or chisel - and turn the lathe on medium speed and knock the edges of the nut off - the little chips of brass will go everywhere so make sure you have eye protection and hand protection.

Good luck

Ray

Reply to
Ray Sandusky

I just made a handle from padauk. I used a copper plumbing fixture (used to join 2 pipes together) for the ferrule. They have 2 types, one with an internal stop (so you can only insert the pipe to the stop from each end) and one with no stop. The one with no stop is the one to get. I used epoxy in the ?hole? that took the tang and coated the bare end grain with a thick coating. It makes a really nice finished effect.

Reply to
Larry

Alan Lacer does this same thing with the copper couplings, epoxy in the hole and also cleans up the edges on the lathe after putting it onto the handle. It gives it a nice finished look. I guess he makes a lot of the Glaser wooden tool handles. He was mentioning something about that. Maybe it's just a custom order type of thing though. He also mentioned that he tried using some brass but didn't like it.

Personally, I just buy 3 diameters of copper pipe in 10' lengths and cut them to length. I have them sitting in a box next to the lathe when I need them. I don't use adhesives in the hole but I do like the finished look of cleaning/turning the copper FERRULE (for Kevin ) after putting it on the handle.

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

"Ray Sandusky" wrote: (clip) the little chips of brass will go everywhere so make sure you have eye protection and hand protection. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^ Those chips can be collected, and used later to turn a crack into a "feature."

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

I like to use copper fittings. They are a bit heavier that just copper pipe. I like Ray's idea to.

Barry

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Reply to
Barry N. Turner

If I recall, the main purpose of the ferrule was to help prevent the wood from splitting when either driving the tang into the handle or if there was a particularly spectacular catch.

Personally, I like the "look" of brass, copper, or stainless ferrule on a contrasting wood. Silly preference, and it really doesn't make much difference as I try to fit the tang to the handle so there isn't that chance of splitting when I seat the tool.

As with most things turning, it boils down to personal preference rather than a "turned in stone" rule.

Vic

Reply to
VRadin

I use copper tubing for mine. Once its finished, I mirror-polish it with a motorized felt wheel loaded with Zam. BRIGHT copper looks great.

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

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Reply to
Peter Teubel

I quit using ferrules on tools ages ago. Mostly I think they are decoration and I make tools to use, not to sell.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Reply to
Tony Manella

Thanks for all the informative comments. There is a good 'old timey' hardware store nearby that will certainly have what I need. Hey, they have the wicks for kerosene incubators so no doubt they have plenty of plumbing fixtures to scrounge around in. Thanks again

Reply to
Kevin

If you want the elegant look of brass on your home-made tool handles, look for short, brass connector pipe called "nipples" - I think. The walls are thicker than most ferrules or copper pipe. They have threaded ends, which you can cut off; are sold in short lengths ( 2", 3", 4",5",6") and cost only a couple of dollars in the plumbing section of stores like Home Depot.

Reply to
edward tabachek

SNIP ......... Tony, That soounds like the old method of tying off rope ends, clled "whipping", if I remember my old scout manual correctly. Of course, back then CA glue was still a far away invention Kodak had not considered. :- )

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

Reply to
Ken Moon

Tony, Could you elaborate on this a bit. I've been thinking about ca glue and string for a half hour and I'm drawing a complete blank.

Bob, Naugatuck Ct.

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Reply to
Bob Pritchard

Think how swords' "handles" are wrapped with cord (among other things). Not nearly as pretty or functional as many of the swords but the same idea of application.

Here's a little bit about the sword end of it...

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another description of it would be to just put some string/cordend on the area where the ferrule goes; glue it down with CA and just startwrapping it around. Glue it down periodically. That's the basic procedure.Not particularly useful in my opinion but it's different. And that's aboutall you need these days. Maybe someone could start a tradition of wrapping the handles of turning tools in the hira maki fashion, for example. AND you could use the cord as a tourniquet if that skew gets too wild!

- Andrew

Reply to
AHilton

Hi Bob... I'm not Tony, but have done more than a fair share of whipping rope- here's a link to a quick and easy method:

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CA glue is to help hold the whipping line to the wood- you can also use epoxy, titebond, elmers, horse glue depending on the makeup of the whipping line. Artificial cord, nylons and such seem to work better with CA or epoxy, and the natural hemp or fiber cords work well with the more liquid glues.

If you need to whip a length much longer than about an inch, then there's a slightly different method used in bowstring making that works well. If anyone is interested, I can locate, scan and post some images from the bowstring making instructions.

vic

Reply to
VRadin

Reply to
Tony Manella

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