Boxes - How do you make em?

I have made over 100 boxes on the lathe. I often get folks who say to me - you are not doing it right....That's not the way Richard Raffan says to do it!

Well, after making them with the flange on the base and the flange on the lid, I have found it is far easier FOR ME to make the lid fit if the flange is on the lid. That's right - the complete opposite of what Richard Raffan tells us to do! I guess I just committed the sin of sins - I found a way to do something that does not adhere to the book!

Another reason why I make the flange on the lid is I like to see the base without the flange protruding from the top when the lid is removed.

I also turn the lid first, then make the base to fit the lid! I have found that if I turn the lid first, I have a flange that is easier to size to inside the top of the base by using a caliper and sneaking up on the fit. About 90% of all my boxes have a firm but workable fit - the ones that do not are due to my own erroneous tool handling!

How do you make your boxes? Should I fall back into line or is it OK for me to wander off on my own?

Ray Sandusky

Reply to
Ray Sandusky
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Depends, but given that you've actually already thought for yourself, it might prove a bit difficult to stop.

Personally, I've been ignoring published advice ever since I found out that it didn't work for me, at the ripe old age of 12 or so, and I have yet to find anything that _has_ to be done exactly the way someone else does it. I often find that I can figure out six different ways to do things, all of which work. I also find that some published advice is just plain stupid....

Reply to
Ecnerwal

The "reason" for making the flange on the base is so that you don't have less interior depth than it appears from the outside. Other than that, who gives a rat's?

I like double cuts on mine, where the tapered flange from the bottom fits inside a groove up on top, which I make a bit loose in dry season, fairly tight in damp. That way you've got a lid that fits, regardless.

If it doesn't, I put some pumice in the groove and lap the base into it.

Reply to
George

LatheCop: "Back in line, heretic."

Ray, you bring to mind a frightening thought- what did all those generations of turners do before Raffan was granted deification?

I don't believe that the lathe police will come storming your shop anytime soon for turning a lid first, putting a flange where YOU like it, or having mismatched grain when the box and lid are turned from different logs out of the firewood pile.

Personally, I turn the box first. That's only because I often use different wood for the top, and may turn 5 or 10 boxes and wait a few days before making lids. I also have a handful of lids in various shapes and styles from practising some designs, but no box to match them yet. My only disclaimer here is if I'm turning wet or known unstable wood, then I turn the box, then quick-turn the lid. Finish both, tape them together to dry, and watch the box and lid deform in the same directions. IF I get it right, it can make for the all-too-rare oval box with a lid having perfectly matched grain.

Unless you're turning for quantity, why worry about which comes first- the box or the lid.

Reply to
VRadin

Hi Ray, I turn the part that will NOT have the flange first. For me it is easier to turn something down to fit than to make a hole to fit the flange. I tend to put the flange on the base just 'cause it allows for a bit more room in the box.

Reply to
Kevin

I recently just began turning the flange on the lid, it works better for what I'm doing these days--lidded boxes with a globular shape and a small lid. They are twist-lock lids, which makes it really fun. The flange is cut to a dovetail shape, and the inside of the body comes up at the same angle in the rim--of course, the lid won't fit until a little handwork is done. I mark 4 equidistant points on both the body and lid, then shape two opposing quadrants to flatten the dovetail in the lid, and open up the diameter in the body for the dovetail-shaped quadrants in the lid to slip into. After a little fine-tuning with sandpaper, a quarter-turn locks the lid into the body. Before the fine-tuning though, I leave a tight fit so I can turn the body and lid together to final shape. A diagram might help visualize this better:

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've turned a few pillboxes and one box worth showing but don't have regular access to a digital camera. A how-to is in the works, but my round-tuit for finishing it won't appear 'til after the weekend. Ken Grunke
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Coulee Region Woodturners of SW Wisconsin
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Reply to
Ken Grunke

Ray I like to read every turning book I can get my hands on and to watch every video. I figure I can learn something from every turner I read, watch, or talk to. Then I do what seems to work and if it contradicts current wisdom I wait until current wisdom catches up to me. Seems to me you do the same. Be at Peace.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

Reply to
Tony Manella

Ray,

Not that I care on the process - I happen to do it the "Raffan" way, but the flange on the bottom is a traditional box design characteristic that has a functional value. If any box were to get wet, presumably from the top down, the liquid would be shed away from the interior contents. Flange on the lid means that liquid could run down into the box.

Reply to
Joe Fleming

Darrell

I recently came to the understanding that in some cases that what is written is not always the absolute truth - unless it is in the Bible!

Ray

Reply to
Ray Sandusky

Interesting take on the liquid spill - I did not take that into account. Most of my boxes are made to hold dried spices - in fact, I call them "spice boxes" - the women love the idea!

Ray

Reply to
Ray Sandusky

Ray Yeah and amen, brother.

Reply to
Darrell Feltmate

If you turn the flange last, whether it is on the top or the bottom, you don't have to move the tool rest out of the way to check the fit. Martin

Reply to
Martin Rost

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