Hi group: What success have you people had using the normal household furnace ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on the whole length??????????????
Jow
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Hi group: What success have you people had using the normal household furnace ducting for a mainline. I know I would have to duct-tape the joint on the whole length??????????????
Jow
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Part of my system uses 30ga ducting. Works fine!
I have heard of some saying their system can collapse the thin stuff if all their gates are closed but I have my doubts unless their system is extremely tight and have some damaged duct (badly flattened). If you think you are approaching this situation just bleed a bit of air - yeah, I know that isn't the idea but life isn't perfect at least on the cheap. Billh
Good success in my situation, which is a part time shop using a DC1100C with
You can also use 4" schedule 40 PVC.
Deb
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I use metal, too. The only problem I see with the PVC is that you still have to ground it, whereas the metal acts as a ground.
"Just one OLD man's opinion."
The Other Bruce
The problem with "just bleed a little air" is that you don't know you need to until it's too late.
==================== Bruce, The metal ducting is conductive, but is not grounded unless it is in contact with a grounded tool, or has a grounding wire run to an established ground lug/connection.
Ken Moon Webberville, TX
Jow,
I installed some in my shop about 5 years ago and it seems to work fine, also it's pretty cheap. However, I put one length of a heavier duct called spiral duct that has a length of steel curled around the outside. It is much more substantial and if the cost isn't critical I would definitely recommend this instead.
Good luck,
Glen Duff
golf wrote:
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