misc questions

are the chucks that you stick a key in to tighten, suceptible to the problem I had with one that tightened by turning it, in theory the force of rotating the wood against the tools keeps it tight, but while trying to make some captive rings on a bowl, I had a really bad catch with the skew, and it tighted up to the point that the jaws were in odd positions. they dont slide in grooves, they are 4 pieces, with a spring around the outside, and a cone of metal in the middle, that forces them apart when you tighten it. what is the point of those unpowered sanders that some people use, that use disk's like a powered one, but just in the end of a piece of wood with a bearing. wouldnt you get less sanding, because it would rotate with the direction of the lathe?

Reply to
Reyd Dorakeen
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Reyd Dorakeen wrote: [snip]

This may be hard to follow but I'll try...

It is true that one point on the disk is travelling the same direction as the piece. However, a great many more points are in contact with the wood because you are compressing the foam backing. Because the disk is going around and around those extra points cut across the wood at a slight angle to the direction of rotation. This method is very effective and does not generate as much heat as when you use a power drill to drive the disk. The velcro backing lasts much longer.

Make sense?

Reply to
David Wade

Reply to
Reyd Dorakeen

Reyd Dorakeen wrote: (clip) a great source for bearings is skateboards (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^ I haven't tried them, but I HAVE had good success with roller-blade wheels. Old rollerblades are available at flea markets, etc, very cheap, and they have good bearings in the wheels. (I have seen racers go about 30 MPH, which means the RPM of the wheels is really up there.) The axle is a shoulder bolt, which makes them very easy to mount on a handle for sanding use. The wheels can be reshaped on the lathe to hold the sandpaper.

Reply to
Leo Lichtman

same type of bearings.

Reply to
Reyd Dorakeen

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