Mlcs router bit (for preparing stave type blanks) & alternatives

Got the LM fixed & had some time-- after much set up time on the jointer I found that this method -- at least for 45 degrees or eight staves works after a fashon. The router bits mentioned earlier appear to cut a 90 degree rabbett at 45 dergees, or 30 degrees or 60 deg-- depending on which one you get. Its advantage seems to be the sholder it leaves for inner alignment, which you can't get on a jointer unless you set it up to make one cut at rabbetting depth. I havn't bought any of the three bits yet-- I may try & make a 45 degree fixture for my router table so I can achieve the same effect with a 3/4" straight router bit- MTTM Picture of the bits & method are on page 28 of the new MLCS cat. Phil

Are you referring to the flute and bead bit or the bird's mouth bit? I don't think MLCS sells the bird's mouth bit, but it sounds like that's what you need. They come in different angles for a different number of sides.

If you have a decent tablesaw with a sharp blade, you don't need anything else. I've made hundreds of staved percussion drum shells with only a tablesaw, with between 12 and 30 pieces. I set the blade angle with a plastic draftsman's protractor, held against the miter guage to make sure it was square against the blade--if it wasn't you'd get an angle error. To check your angle, cut one stave and chop it up into short pieces, then superglue them together on a flat surface over wax paper.

In the beginning, we tried a 15 degree carbide router bit for a 12-pc drum shell but found the tablesaw with a fine-tooth carbide blade to be quicker, easier, and more econimical. The saw's toothmarks rarely showed up in the glued joint after finish-turning unless the saw operator was less than careful while ripping the staves.

BTW, 8 pieces need a 22.5 deg. edge angle, 45 deg. would give a square.

Ken Grunke