Morse Taper Sticks?

I use a #2 morse taper reamer on my Woodfast every once in a while. I have found that the drive center will slip and raise a burr on the inside of the taper and by rotating the "machinist's' reamer I can remove these burrs and any other crap that gets pressed in there. The reamers are not inexpensive but not out of site in price either. Maybe someone else can suggest a US supplier for these. I just rotate the reamer slowly, by hand for a couple of rotations. Don't put too much pressure on the reamer, you don't want to remove too much metal - only the little burr. It seems to do the job, OK,. I have always wondered why Woodfast's shaft was not hardened. I think some other lathe shafts are, hardened. Ed.

"Bob Ivey" snipped-for-privacy@comcast.net

Don't know the lathe--if the center is removed axially (from outboard the headstock) or radially (from the side).

If it's axial, the back of the center or knockout rod may be mushed. Grind them flat. Use a heavier diameter knockout, if possible.

if the knockout hole is on the side of the spindle, a worn center end may not stick far enough into the hole. Can you either use a longer dead center, or add a piece of metal to the end of the current one (if soft), or file to elongate the knockout hole a tad, or use a drift pin with a quicker angle.

The usual problem with a taper in the headstock is the opposite--spinning in the bore, so you want to avoid doing anything that might make the taper fit less tight.

A smart blow with a steel drift or punch is the way to go, making sure that you have a cloth or such over the tip of the center so it doesn't come flying out of the spindle, especially if removal is from the back of the HS. Frank Morrison