motor/switch/wiring problem

"Galanw" wrote : (clip) An arrow labeled "line" points to the white (and the black is next to it). There is an arrow labeled "load" pointing to the red (and the orange is along side that). (clip ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ It sounds like you have a two-pole switch, interrupting both sides of the line. To bypass the switch, you need to jump each of the "line" connections to the corresponding "load" connection on the same side of the switch. If you cross these jumpers, and the switch happens to be on, you could create a short circuit.

Do you have a meter? Check that yo have power at the outlet. Check that you have power on the two "line" terminals on the switch. With the switch on, check that you have power at the two "load" connections on the switch. Then go to the motor and see whether you are getting power there.

Does the motor hum when you turn it on? You could have a stuck centrifugal starting switch. Sometimes a tap with a hammer, or a little compressed air will fix that.

Harbor Freight often has a little yellow digital multimeter on sale for only about $3 or $4. These can be a lifesaver around the house or in the car.

Afternoon Galan: To check the switch, you do not need to wire up the motor. you can, if you don't have one already for about $2.00, get a voltage tester.

1. I'm guessing here, but the red and orange wires are probably connected to the switch by screws. Push the switch to the off position. The voltage tester has two probes. Touch one to the screw with the red wire and the other to the screw with the orange wire. You should show ZERO/ NO voltage.

2, Now, turn the switch to the on position. Place the probes in the same locations. It should indicate voltage present, by a light, buzz, or other indicator.

3.If you do not get voltage there, place one probe on the black wire and the other one on the white wire. Voltage present - the Switch is bad. No voltage? Then the problem is in the cord/ wiring before the switch.

H> My old Delta lathe refused to start a day after turning a 11" bowl without

Hi Galanw, I don't mean to be insulting, but judging by the way you asked about a potentionally lethal problem, I urge you to get a _person to help you, not try _ng advice even if it is correct.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

I tried a voltage meter (and I am still alive). With the switch off, red and orange show zero. With switch on, red and orange still zero, but black and white show 110v. So the switch is bad?

But here are some other readings: ON...Red and White show 110v, and white and Black show 110v. OFF...White and Black show 110v, and Black and Orange show a flickering of

110v (whatever that means).

What now (short of electrocution)? I think I received very sound advice from Arch, but there are some politicians that I would like to recommend for the job.

"Galanw" wrote: in message news:cELSe.2615$ snipped-for-privacy@fe11.lga...

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Yes, the switch is bad.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^ It probably means you have burned contacts across that pair, which is what is keeping the mototr from starting. You can verify this by placing a jumper across black and orange. If my thinking is right, you can do a temporary fix by wiring in this jumper--the other half of the switch will then control the motor. Since you will be doing all the switching on one line, the arcing will be more severe, so I would not expect it to last forever, but it will keep you going for a while.

Arch is concerned for your safety. I am concerned also, but it sounds to me like you know what not to touch. I am also concerned with legal liability. I will declare publicly that if you use any of my suggestions, by that act you absolve me of any liability.

Nope...it didn't work. I crossed the black and orange and nothing happened. Is there any other combo of wires that I can try crossing without blowing up the place?

I posted a photo of the switch on abpw in case it helps.

Thanks for all your help.

Galanw

"Galanw" wrote: Nope...it didn't work. I crossed the black and orange and nothing happened. Is there any other combo of wires that I can try crossing without blowing up the place? ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Of course, you had the switch in the ON position when you tried that--I hope. You could add a jumper between the other pair at the same time, (white and red?), thus completely eliminating the switch from the circuit. If that doesn't work it's definitely not the switch. With the two jumpers on, if the motor doesn't run, check the voltage across the "load" pair. You should see 120 v. If you do, then the problem is between the switch and the motor, or in the motor itself.

I have an old delta and have had the same trouble . The problem is the switch gets impacted with sawdust and needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. It's very difficult putting the switch back together.

"Bill Badland"wrote: I have an old delta and have had the same trouble . The problem is the switch gets impacted with sawdust and needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. It's very difficult putting the switch back together. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ That could very well be the problem. If it is, then putting the jumpers across between line and load terminals should start the motor. It might be possible, in that case, to blow it out with compressed air. I've been there too--trying to get the little spring and the little ball in the right places and slipping it all together. A new switch is only a few dollars.

You guys hit the nail on the head.....everything seems OK since I disassembled the switch, cleaned it out and reassembled it. It was a hell of a job, but it worked. Thank you all for the help.!!!!!!!!!!

Leo, I would like to know where I can buy a Delta switch for a few dollars. The last one cost about 75 dollars.

"Bill Badland" wrote: Leo, I would like to know where I can buy a Delta switch for a few

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Well, Bill, I guess I was RONG. Remind me not to buy any Delta equipment. $75 for a switch. That's worse than $3 a gallon for gas. If I couldn't find a cheaper replacement, I would mount a separate switch (available for a few dollars) in an outlet box next to my lathe.

I DID mount an outlet box with just such a switch at the tailstock end of my Jet 1236, in series with the factory switch, so I could shut the lathe off without getting in the "line of fire." I ended up using it almost exclusively until I got rid og the lathe a couple of years ago.

Leo, I keep the extra switch ,so when the switch becomes impacted I can put the other one on and keep turning and repair the other one later on.