Need help with Delta Midi lathe motor

No luck in the manual- and mine went out some time ago as well. I've just been running without it by manually spinning the handwheel to start it.

If that fails, there's gotta be an electric motor repair shop somewhere in your local phone book. Of course, that may end up costing more than just getting the part from Delta, depending on the labor charge. Kinda stings when you think about paying $40 for something that already went out on you, though.

These motors must really suck. This is actually my second go-round. The first one died soon after purchase and after a few calls had Delta send me a new complete motor. Now I'm out of warranty.

I tried the spin start as well, but the motor just turns very slowly with no torque. I have a motor shop, but from everything I read, there is no "standard" for sizing a run capacitor, it depends on the specifics of the motor. So the only sure way to get it right is the match the original specs.

Its also a bit irksome that both the mounting and shaft size for this motor non-standard making it very difficult to even source a better quality replacement.

Prometheus wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Most capacitors are in the $5-$10 bracket. A good motor repair shop should be able to advise you as to what you need. If you want them to repair it, thats another game. Regards, Hank

"Prometheus" wrote: (clip) I've just been running without it by manually spinning the handwheel to start it. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Alan, that should work on yours also, if it really is just a bad capacitor. Have you unhooked the capacitor--maybe it's partially shorted. Also, check the centrifugal starting switch. They get loaded with dust and stop switching. Blowing it out with air may be all that is needed.

Finally, I don't think the value of the capacitor is critical. What it does is produce a phase shift to create a rotating field to start the motor. If the value is off some, I would expect it to affect the starting torque, but it still should start. I would just take the capacitor off another similar motor and try it--what can you lose?

Unfortunately, this is not a capacitor start motor. Its a permanent split capacitor motor which means there is no centrifugal switch and the capacitor remains in the circuit while running. It also means that the you need a different type of capacitor (not start) and that the rating is more critical to getting the expected performance.

I know what happens when you put a start capacitor in its place (even with the same rating), because I tried it on the first motor assuming it was a start capacitor. After about 30 seconds of running you hear a loud bang and smoke starts billowing out of the capacitor.

Is a good look. I believe last time this came up was in regard to a JET motor, and the value was 25uf. Given the similarities, it's probably a good match.

> > Given the similarities, it's probably a good match. >

Thanks George. I started at that leeson site, thats how I figured out what type of motor it was. The 25mf value from the Jet makes sense, the only data point I have for a similar motor is 16mf for a 1/3 hp motor. If I can't convince someone with a Midi to pop the cover off there cap and report the actual value, I'll go with 25mf.

I repeat my plaintive and repeated question to the group. Can a jet mini (vs or belted) motor be reversed? If not, why? If so, is it practical? Hoping someone will finally answer, TIA!

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

OK, OK, everyone guilted me into looking. My Delta midi's an earlier one too, so here's everything off my capacitor:

CBB60 SH

30uF +/- 5% 250 VAC 50/60 Hz 25/070/21

Thanks Owen, much appreciated.

Hopefully, overheating the motor didn't cause any other damage and the new cap will get me back running.

I suppose I can stop scheming now about ways to have my wife distract the store clerk while I disassembled the demonstration model...

If it makes you feel less used, I purchased one of your PC557 shims a while back...

DPDT switch.

Or perhaps you could just "will" it to happen, like drying .

Yes, if it's anything like the Delta. When my start cap. went out, I found that I can run it in reverse just as easily as forward- it just depends on which way I spin it to get it running. Reason #1 why I haven't *fixed* it, and don't really plan to.

I'm not enough of an electrical guy to tell you how you can safely replicate it, I just know it works either direction. If you don't spin it to start, it'll just sit there and hum (though being a little concerned about my tools humming, that hasn't happened since the first time- now I spin it and then flip the switch.) Of course, you may not care to have to spin it manually to start the lathe (though a leather belt wound around the handwheel should make it fairly easy.)

There's got to be enough expertise on the group to answer your question, I'm afraid it just doesn't reside at my end.

I had the same thing when the capacitor went out on my Jet Mini... it would run in either direction based on the way it was started. But with mine there was not enough torque in any direction to be able to use the lathe.

I wonder if that is a difference in Jet and Delta's design, or just good luck on my part. As far as I can tell, everything but the starting is unaffected.

when you finally figure out what value capacitor you need, replace it with an oil filled capacitor designed for AC motor service - surplus it will cost you $10 or so and will last much better - it's bigger, but it will not fail Bill

to contact me, do not reply to this message, instead correct this address and use it

will iam_ b_ No ble at msn daught com

That's exactly what I did, except for the surplus part. I went for fast instead of cheap. It ended up costing $37 but that was still cheaper than Delta's capacitor which was $40+shipping for a piece of crap. I expect the oil-filled one I got should outlast the lathe.

Thanks to all who responded.

Alan.