Mylands Friction Polish

NOTHING is safe if the prospective customer feels uneasy.

On the other hand, most anything is safe depending on dosage. Shellac-based stuff like Myland's is probably no worse than any other finish, but you'll certainly destroy the gloss with the first use.

Hi Jimbo, The question usually resolves into 'legally food safe' and 'common sense food safe' so if your bowls are for sale, it's really your decision rather than our answer. A finish safe for a turner's table isn't always safe for his customer's table.

If this polish is shellac based, FWIW shellac is used to coat pills and candies. There's some evidence that wood itself has antiseptic properties.

Excepting from their garden, people have no idea who or what has touched their salad greens and fruits on their long journey to the table. They can be washed but not sterilized and are likely less safe than any finish that we use, once it's cured.

Being facetious, the Myland's finish can't be shipped via air so I guess these bowls shouldn't be used for in-flight meals. Aarrh!

Being serious, IMHO, If function dictates form & finish then a stable fruit or salad bowl with _no finish is the most attractive.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

The most common fruits placed in a fruit bowl come wrapped by nature, so pretty much any finish is ok. Once any finish is dry, it is 'food safe', but if you plan on using the item for salads or such, just use a coat of mineral oil and refresh as needed after washing the bowl.

Almost any finish is relatively food safe, once the solvents/dryers/etc. have evaporated.. Mylands is a great "instant gratification" finish but isn't very durable..

I prefer to buff with the Beall or other good buffing system, as the finish is not only very nice but uses carnauba wax... which is used in gum and some foods...

Mac

Mac, I thought the Mylands seemed like it would be durable. You are right it does put on a nice shine. Mylands suggested using carnuba wax over the finish for a more durable and longer lasting finish.

I went ahead and used it but I wasnt sure what to the person getting it. I only really make bowls for gifts (so far) and have never sold one "yet".

For me it is only a hobby and it keeps me busy, besides that it is fun!

Although it's already been said, I'll put in my 2 cents

I've used this product on food bowls that I personally use and have had no problem. Since it's shellac based, I find no harm in it. Shellac has been used for a loooooooong time, I'm sure someone somewhere would have mentioned a problem with it by now. I suppose the only problem someone will come across is if they have an allergy to shellac, which I've never heard of, but possible.

Yes, the finish comes off faster than others. But, considering how quick and (relatively) easy it is to apply, then it comes as no big surprise.

If you like the Mylands, spend more and try Shellawax... it's pricey, but the first friction polish that I really like...

If you apply the liquid, instead of running the lathe at slow speed you run it fast... for pens and small bowls I use the 2,400 to 3,000 rpm range... the heat burns it into the surface (as opposed to ONTO the surface) and makes a pretty durable finish...

Don't worry about having extra mylands on hand, especially if it's the "high build" or whatever they call it... makes really good sanding sealer to fill in pores before sanding with higher grits..

When you get right down to it, how food safe is a poly or styrene cup? *lol*

Mac

Mac, have you tried the Shellawax Cream at all? It's supposed to be a friction polish suitable for larger objects that doesn't dry as quickly as the liquid stuff. I keep meaning to try it myself, but never got around to it.

I have some but I just haven't gotten the hang of using it yet...

You're supposed to apply it to the bowl with the lathe stopped and then start the lathe and work it in..

If I use it in the thickness that it comes in, it's too sticky to rub on the wood... If I thin it with a little of the Shellawax liquid, it will spread on the bowl but I don't get an even of smooth finish on the bowl...

I'm sure that it's operator error, but the liquid is easier to use on most stuff...

I guess the cream is for larger stuff.. but most of what I use friction polish on now is pens and stuff that are too small or awkward for buffing..

Mac

Been here yet?

Shellawax is their thing. Why is it memories of Andrew telling people that alcohol will remove wax come to mind?

nah... I'll stick to the liquid on pens and buff everything else... more durable and cheaper.. lol

Mac