New bee finishing

In message , Darrell Feltmate writes

This is an interesting one to me. Can you clarify the concept? When I dealt with Engines I was always reminded never to mix Mineral and Vegetable oil as it will congeal into a rubbery mess and block the fuel lines.

So the intent in using the mix on wood is that as it penetrates this exact same thing happens, and thus creates a seal in the wood?

Shellac or 'Salad Bowl Finish'. Actually, the word on the street is that about any finish is food safe after it's fully cured which can be up to about 30 days. I like to stick to the above two however, as much for marketing reasons as actual safety...

...Kevin

Personally, I keep mineral oil far away from my work...

A few years ago I was looking for a wet sanding method and a countryman of yours demonstrated the use of "liquid paraffin", so I tried it..

The minor problem was when I went in to get a few bottles the druggist looked very sympathies.. lol

The major one was even though the oil worked well for wet sanding, it NEVER dries.. things would be dust magnets a year later, as well as getting a dull finish after a while..

I use natural Danish oil now for wet sanding and I'm very happy with it.. It soaks in well and keeps the shop much cleaner while sanding, and it's a nice finish that buffs very well.. It's "food safe", but IMO so is poly, if it's cured and the folks don't chew the finish off the bowl..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

On many of my pieces I use Walnut Oil, especially the Chinese Ball. It soaks in well to bring out the color of the wood, but does take a few days to dry. The Walnut Oil is not toxic, unless someone has an allergy to walnuts. After it is dry, it can be buffed to a high shine with the Beall buffing system.

The one product that I use on a great many of my pieces is Kerf's Wood Creme, which is manufactured in Bellingham, Washington about 75 miles North of my home. It finishes with a satin finish, not high gloss. Here is a report on the product and the maker:

Several years ago, one of the fellows in the club brought in some samples of a fairly new product for finishing wood, called Kerf's Wood Cream. The product was made by Anne Collard of Bellingham, Washington. Her company name is "ShadowWood Too," which she started in 1996. For awhile, I served as a dealer for her products and still had a fair supply on hand when I heard that she had quit making the Kerf's products. She tells me now that she had really only slowed down production to revamp her business.

At that point, I quit selling them so that Mildred and I could have a supply of this fine wax for a longer period of time. I understand that the Woodcraft Supply warehouse quit stocking Kerf's products, but individual stores may still carry them. Currently, Seattle Woodcraft and Eugene Woodcraft have products on their shelves. So check your local Woodcraft store for this product.

Recently, Anne Collard contacted me saying the she never really went out of business, but had simply slowed down to revamp. She is pleased to announce that Kerf's Wood Creme and Kerf's wood and furniture lotion are both available. She says that you can either order direct from her using MC or Visa or contact her to find a location near you who is stocking her products. You can contact Anne collard by telephone at (360) 738-3369 or e-mail her at .

I was very pleased to learn that my favorite wax finish was still going to be available, because our hoarded supply is beginning to run low. To learn more about Anne and her Kerf's products, see the following: . I highly recommend Anne's products and think you'll like them too.

This article was printed in the January 2007 issue of More Woodturning.

Hope this will help you a bit.

Fred Holder

Think of it this way. To remove oil, you use water and detergent to help emulsify and rinse it away. That's what has happened to your "finish." Had you merely oiled it up and let it sit, it would have gathered whatever dust it could unto itself as a swiffer rag does. Holding it until you washed the dust and oil away with the detergent.

OTOH, if the oil cross-links into a finish which resists detergent emulsification, with or without the help of sturdy resins, it'll be there much longer, though not forever, because even a flexible oil film is not cpable of responding to soak and dry cycles that cooking utensils are exposed to by casual dishwashers.

For the original questioner, almost all cured finishes are indigestable. If ingested, they pass unmodified. The standards for the US, except for California, where everything causes cancer, are here.

Mineral oil is indigestible as well, but it also irritates the colon into putting out more moisture, making it a good laxative. You can put it on your wooden stuff, but if you wash to remove bacteria and protect your health, it won't be there long.

you can also find Anne's food safe finishes at

bill