Newbe question

It is very difficult to rechuck a piece so that it is spinning as before.

When I rough something like a vase, I start between centers, just to get it somewhat round and balanced. Then I cut a tenon or rebate on what is to be the bottom, generally a rebate so I don't have to do anything extra to finish the bottom, and then transfer to a chuck before doing any shaping. Make sure that the tenon or rebate is shorter than the dovetails on the jaws. If you look closely, most jaws have a shoulder below the dovetail that is the same diameter as the top end of the dovetail. If your tenon or rebate reaches the shoulder on the jaws it will not hold worth a hoot. On my Nova chucks anything deeper than 1/4" is asking for trouble.

One other thing that you learn by trial and error, mostly error, is how tight to chuck things. Too tight and the wood fractures and will come off rather easily. Too loose and ditto.

I would suggest not doing vases until you have mastered hollowing out shorter forms. Lots of leverage out there on a 8" vase. And don't be afraid to "Cheat" and drill out most of the material.

Thanks Bill I presume by rebate you mean drill a hole maybe 1" diam in the base? And then expand chuck jaws to hold? Regards

"Capt T" wrote: (clip) To hollow it out i removed tailstock and tried with a small spindle gauge to attack the end.It all flew off the chuck (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Steady rest.

Capt T Here are a couple of thoughts on what you are trying to do. First, if your cuts are heavy and if the wood is fairly soft and green, the spur center will start to dig into the wood and fill itself up with fibers from the wood. If you had the drill on end you would call the spur center a drill bit. Once it jams with those fibers, nothing will get it to hold. Take more gentle cuts and make sure your tools are sharp. Second, I like to use a faceplate where possible, not a chuck. It is a myth that you can get the piece perfectly centered after putting on a tenon. A faceplate will give superior hold and can be centered as well as a chuck with a bit of experience. I would start between centers and rough shape a vase or hollow form, leaving a tenon on the bottom large enough for a faceplate. I think you are using a

3/4x16 spindle. There is a very nice 2" faceplate made for the Taig lathe that is great for this application. It needs to be redrilled to take #14 sheet metal screws but this is easily done. Take a look at my web site for a few more hints. There is a page on doing hollow forms that should help.

Only if you have a steady or a delicate touch. Since you're still having problems between the centers, your touch might not be delicate enough for a recess just yet.

I bought a two-fanged drive center, so I can make a double saw kerf and hold it. Works better than the four-fanged. If you pay attention to the dovetailing, you can remount perfectly centered - as long as you didn't knock it off by compressing the tenon.

Thanks all for your help not sure what a "kerf" is but I guess a saw cut into which a two pronged spur can be lodged to give a deeper hold? Any way will try again when the bruises subside. At least the kids hamsters aren`t short of bedding

Regards

Kerf is basically the "track" or "space" left by a blade when cutting.... a narrow blade would have a thinner kerf, etc..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing