Pens?

Here in the UK, most woodturning suppliers can supply pen mandrels - basically a part-threaded rod fitted into a morse taper with spacers, etc. I have to say they're mostly cheap enough to try them all - or possibly use none at all, which is the way I ended up.

As with so much turning, the important thing is that you can do a surprising amount without buying very much at all - and I really do think this is the way to start. I turn quite a few pens these days, and hardly ever use all the gee gaws I bought when I first started turning - plus I'm now in a better position to judge what I really do need.

When I need a pen press, I use the engineering vice on my drill press

- works very well. As for an end mill, I've never used one - an accurate jig for my small bench disk sander does very well so far. As for a mandrel - it's surprising what you can do with a bit of rod in a jacobs chuck.

So I'm not dodging your question by saying you shouldn't buy such things if you're happier working that way - I'm just saying you can start turning pens without a lot of store-bought accessories.

Much depends on the kind of pens you want to turn. I don't care much for the more sophisticated pens (actually I like them fine, but don't care for the prices charged for the 'kits' - often more than it costs to buy a very decent pen). So, much of my current output is now desk pens based on the working parts of cheap commercial throwaway pens. I much prefer the freedom of form you have without having to accomodate a commercial kit. If you're just starting out, you may prefer that too, without the worry of spoiling expensive components.

My standard method started from a lack of kit, but eventually continued from preference.

Put a 6mm (or whatever) drill in a jacobs chuck on the headstock. That's used to drill a hole through a 3/4" sq blank - either just the length of the refill, or all the way through if you don't mind turning a wee ornamental plug for the top. Replace the drill with a piece of rod the same diameter (actually I just turn the drill bit around), and add a rubber tap washer between the jacobs chuck and replaced blank - make sure the rod reaches well inside but doesn't bottom in the drilled hole. Run up the tailstock until the washer grips, and turn carefully. If you overdo things you might get slip - not a bad idea with small turnings.

Then turn your pen. You might amaze yourself - if not at first, then certainly very soon with a bit of practice - don't be afraid to use up some wood. You'll find preferences of your own - drill bit sizes, etc, and other problems not mentioned. But you'll find a way around them all, and develop your own methods, just like the rest of us - the main attraction as far as I'm concerned. This same technique has made paper knife handles, sewing kits, etc, with no expensive chucks, mandrels or presses involved.

And if you decide you really do want to make the more upmarket pens, I guarantee the experience won't have been wasted - and a few dollars might have been saved.

As for exotic woods - I still find a nice piece of yew or some burled walnut hard to beat. That said, I can't think of anything about the basic technique I use that might not work just as well with acrylics.

John

I don't have a pen press...I use an arbor press instead. Cheaper and a whole lot more robust, it'll never break like I've heard the pen press can. My arbor press is a one ton press. I also don't use a pen mill either as I trim my blanks and tubes on my table saw. My mandrel is a #2 morse taper from Woodcraft.

bill otten

Any store-bought mandrel made for the purpose should work fine as long as it fits your lathe. Could also make one quite easily out of a piece of threaded rod and a couple of nuts if you have a jawed chuck that will close down tight enough.

No, you don't. Not unless you're doing a lot of volume. Personally I use a K-body clamp. If you have a vise that opens wide enough that will do too.

Again, whatever your local supplier has in stock should work. Or you can use a sander if you have one with a table. The pen mill is quite convenient though.

Make sure you know the taper--if you buy a mandrel you'll need one with the right taper.

================================= Phil, By far the most common kits use 7mm fittings, so your 1st mandrell should probably be 7mm, available with a Morse taper, or as a straight mandrel that can be fittted into a scroll chuck. If you have a vise that's big enough, you won't need the press. Same with the mill if you have a sanding station allowing perpendicular sanding. You can use most any scraps around you shop to start with . Cut into 5/8 X 5/8" X 5" long. A jig to hold the blank perpendicular in your drill press is important, so you won't drill out the side of your blank. Of course, you can order predrilled blanks in domestic, exotics, and stabilized (as you called acrylic).

If you want to avoid the kits, desk pens are fun. Using inner works from common ball point pens (my favorite is the Papermate Flex Grip because of its chrome plated point surround). You have a wide range of design options with the desk set because it doesn't have the length limitations of a normal pen set. Also, you have more options such as beads, coves, even a finial. I drill the blank end so the point surround will just fit, then drill a smaller diameter hole that will accept the pen refill shaft. This hole should be just deep enough for the insert to bottom out and not be loose when writing. After sizing, use a bit of RTV to hold the surround in place. This will make it a "permanent" fit, but can be removed to install a refill if desired. A holder can be made as easily as drilling a hole in a round piece of 4/4 wood, or special fittings are available from the regular turning souorces. Have fun.

Ke3n Moon Webberville, TX