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Power to sheds, getting organised etc

OK, I have a second lathe currently sat out side, my chisels should be coming in the post this week and I am getting a 6x8 ft shed with nice big window put up in the garden on Tuesday.and I just liberated some fallen silver birch from the local woods today.

Obviously I am going to need some power to the shed, in the short term I can run an extension lead out, but in the longer term, I need to sort out lighing and a permanent connection. The shed is about 30ft from the house with a veggie patch inbetween. As the area is often dug, just burying a cable will not suffice. There is a fence that I could run it along, though I don't know how tolerant electric cable is to weather, perhaps I should encase it in something.

I know I need a bench to put the grinder on and other stuff as I get it. Anyone got any hints for keeping tools organised? Knowing me whatever I am looking for I will never be able to find.

Kat York, UK

Reply to
moggy
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Kat on the Laymar-Crafts Web Site their is a whole host of useful Storage Hints N Tips for practically everything in your Workshop.

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Reply to
Richard Stapley

This is not a tough problem. Email me how many amps you are going to draw and how far you are from the main panel and I'll tell you what you need to know. You will probably want to put in a sub-panel in the shed, even if you only want 1 or 2 circuits.

Bruce snipped-for-privacy@charter.net

Reply to
Bruce White

How do I work out what amps I am going to draw? At the moment I think that I will be running one or two lights together with the lathe or the grinder at one time. By Panel, do you mean fuse box? If so, then the the fuse box is at the opposite side of the house, any wire from there would have to be run accross a hallway (concrete floor) and skirt the kitchen. Not impossible I guess .

thanks

Reply to
moggy

Hi moggy I can give you some advice based on UK regulationss and systems which should be more relevant. If you are running an extension lead over 30 feet get one designed for that length, don't make one from domestic cable, you will get some voltage loss although not much. Assuming your house supply is a ring main you can draw 13 amps, that is the fuse rating, or about 3 kw at

230v. You will need a heavy duty flexible cable rated at 15 amps at least if not 20.

All your machinery should have a label showing the power it requires in kw.

You must run your cable through an RCB, residual circuit breaker at the house end or better still an RCD, it works the same but can also be used to switch the system on and off. The D stands for device to indicate it is a switch. If there is any current leakage it will cut off, essential where damp can be a problem.

If you install a permanent cable, the best way is to use armoured cable buried under the ground, I don't know the required depth but the IEEE regulations are available from your local library. Alternatively get a contractor to install it. Either way it should be checked for safety by your electricity supplier.

This advice is based on a lifetime of fiddling and a minimal of electrical training but I am not qualified above that so take it at your own risk. There, that the legal getout, good luck. Dave Lawson Redditch UK

Reply to
David S Lawson

Before I get inundated with messages. please allow me to correct the following paragraph.

house end or better still an RCD, it works the same but can also be used to switch the system on and off. The D stands for device to indicate it is a switch. If there is any current leakage it will cut off, essential where damp can be a problem.<

Correct version You must run your cable through an RCD, residual circuit device at the house end or better still an RCB, it works the same but can also be used to switch the system on and off. The B stands for breaker to indicate it is a switch. If there is any current leakage it will cut off, essential where damp can be a problem.

Thats another of the few remaining brain cells gone!!!

Dave Lawson Redditch UK

Reply to
David S Lawson

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