safe finish for goblet used for alcohol?

Lee Valley has "Tried and True" Danish Oil - which is a polymerized Linseed oil. - Non-Toxic - unless you drink it I presume.

Not sure if that would do the trick... Not sure I want to test for you either. LOL.

mac davis wrote:

Well, I know that SOME folks use an epoxy based finish on the insides of their goblets, which provides a "food safe" finish that is pretty resistant to wear and damage. I would NOT stain the inner surfaces of the goblet, though, simply because alcohol is good at leaching out colors, etc, which could be a problem. One thing that might work well...and just occurred to me... would be to seal the inner surfaces of the goblet. It works great on pens that I turn, providing a good, solid finish that is very long wearing. It is also untouched by alcohol, so would not run the risk of deteriorating under use. Regards Dave Mundt

Mac, another of my non-answers; your friend may prefer drinking from wooden goblets, but likely his/her seven guests won't. Many things from the 'good ole days' are for show and not for blow these days. My experience is that wooden cups, goblets, dishes, even wine stoppers will be proudly displayed after maybe one use and the drinks and food served in glass or ceramic thereafter. Chargers, mate cups, salad and wassail bowls are traditional exceptions. This is a woodturner's ng, so other's will differ and answer your question.

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

me either, Will..lol I use Danish Oil on a lot of bowls.. never thought of it as food safe, though..

mac

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Dave.. my object IS to seal the inside.. what do you use for sealer??

mac

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I can see them on a back lit bar, or on a shelf with tooth picks and stuff in them, but I'll be the first to admit that I've never been tempted to drink (or eat) out of anything I've turned..

mac

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Just want to be sure that everyone notices and that LV takes the hit if the info is not correct. There's always a first time...

mac

The reason I was able to come up with the brand of DO so fast is that I just bought some from LV to use on the bowls I was going to turn -- even though SWMBO did not yet know she was buying the lathe for _us_. LOL

I like to plan ahead.

So it is waiting for first use this next week (or so...) since we will be getting some wood to turn. (As soon as she recognizes how we will spend our free time in the next few days. :-) )

Will wrote:

I made a shaving mug out of Canarywood and finished it with epoxy. I use it every day it gets plenty wet and look great on the counter with a matching Canarywood brush. I also have a coffee cup made from an unknown hardwood. I soaked it with a varnish and hung it to dry. I sanded it with 320 later and use it often. No the varnish wasn't "food safe" but I was going to use it. Any small amount of something that may possibly leach out over the years I have been using it don't worry me.

Making something for sale or as a gift I would be hesitant to use the varnish as it did leave a slight slick on the surface for a while.

-Andy

I've made several sets of Wedding Goblets for my kids as they've tied the knot, and did quite a bit of research on finishes that would hold up to alcohol. Seems like most agree that many finishes are "food safe" after fully cured. What I ended up using was a thinned polyurethane (1/3 mineral spirits to 2/3 Minwax gloss poly). Several coats applied 4 - 6 hours apart, and left to cure for 30 days or so after the final coat. The goblets were used at the weddings, and infrequently afterwards for several years. So far, all my kids, and their spuoses are still healthy, their kids seem about as normal as can be expected, and the goblets still have their original finish after lots of hand washings.

Will wrote in news:Og7Vd.26249$Vf6.775794 @news20.bellglobal.com:

I've used Tried & True on a lot of flatwork projects. It's good stuff. I am dubious about its use on stemware, however.

Typical Danish Oil with heavy metal driers is NOT something I'll be using on potential food containers. YMMV.

Patriarch

No heavy metal driers...

As noted - as chosen specifically for non-toxic properties. At least that's what the can and literature says.

Patriarch wrote:

BINGO!

If you have the time, soak the things in a thinned poly before the surface coats. If you can't digest the plastic, you can't get to the bound siccative, though you'll never convince some people of that.

"Hand washing" is a good follow-on. The danger from one unwashed or poorly washed hand after touring your favorite "save the wolves" exhibit is greater than you'll ever experience from cured polyurethane.

That sounds familiar... my wife brought home a 1/4 cord of plum branch wood the other night.. lol

mac

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Great to have a little experience with it, Ron.. thanks..

Did you thin "regular" minwax poly to kind of make your own rubbing poly, or thin the rubbing poly?

mac

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cool! I printed out your reply with Ron's answer for the wife.... Her favorite topcoat is rubbing poly, so she'll appreciate it!

mac

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Will wrote in news:GZdVd.28256$ snipped-for-privacy@news20.bellglobal.com:

Specifically, that's one major reason I use it.

Patriarch

Glad to help, Mac. I just thinned regular Minwax Polyurethane (oil based), since that's what I had on hand. After the first set, I did more nvestigation, and on subsequent goblets I followed the process recommended by George. I applied the first coat on the inside by pouring in a quantity of the thinned poly and sloshing it around for several minutes, then poured out the excess. I let things dry overnight before putting the additional coats on.