Thick Epoxy finish

I was just making final fine cuts on the interior of a medium size (Max 9" OD) segmented wooden bowl. The wood is primarily walnut. I was tardy in taking my thickness measurements and all at once was aware of light shining through at some of the joints. This is near the middle of the bowl. Just cut it too thin. Rather than quit, I went through my regular sanding routine without removing too much additional wood and went to my usual finish (Homer Formby's Tung Oil Finish. I normally put on about five coats.

The bowl is quite attractive although much too thing for much use but I was wondering if there is an additional finish I could put on the inside surfaces of the bowl which would not detract too much from the appearance but might add a little additional stability. I already have five coats of the tung oil finish on all surfaces and the bowl is still attached to the face plate. I will need to remove that very carefully. I was thinking of some of the type of epoxy which is used to coat table tops or bars which can easily be put on to a thickness of 1/16" or more. Can anyone suggest such a product and where it might be available and comment on the appropiateness of this approach?

Reply to
Bob Daun
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System Three has a product, 'Mirror Coat' - a self leveling epoxy finish for bartops, tables etc - they don't say anything about structural use but it IS an epoxy

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also make 'Clear Coat' - a laminating epoxy that dries "clear"
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are available from Woodcraft for $25 - 30

I have not used either of these products, just thought about trying them, if you try them, please let us know how your project goes

HTH Otto

Reply to
ottomatic

I did go to Woodcraft and picked up a set of the Mirror Coat. I mixed a small batch following the directions and applied it to the inside of the bowl. Just rotated it by hand to evenly spread it around the whole side (not the bottom). Had to go back ever so often and rotate until it set up enough not to run down to the bottom. Took a whole day for it to dry to the touch. It actually came out quite nice but very "glassy" with no visible bubbles. Really quite nice but I would not want to do it routinely. Unfortunately, the experiment did not work out as when I was attempting to separate the sacrifical piece by removing small pieces with a chisel, the bowl split in half. After a quick "damn"!, I sat back and thought there may be an opportunity to salvage the pieces. I remounted the bottom and turned it into a small bowl about 6" in diameter and 2" deep. Putting the final finish coats on that now. I also saved the top two inches and am grinding it shorter till I get to the point where the thickness is about 1/8" and then reglue a bottom piece made out of walnut and padauk to make a bowl about 4" high and 8" in diameter.

Reply to
Bob Daun

================================ Another opportunity to improve your original design!! (:-)

Ken Moon Webberville, TX

Reply to
Ken Moon

Bob,

thanks for the info... sorry to hear about the crackage

what do you think about the Mirror coat as a finnish for spindles?

Otto

appropiateness

Reply to
ottomatic

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