Stronghold chuck jaws, whats wrong with this picture.

I use the Oneway Talon, and have the jaws that it came with (#2?) and the spigot jaws.. I don't change jaws often, but when I do, it only takes a few minutes with a drill driver and hex bit..

mac

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"mac davis" wrote: (clip) I don't change jaws often, but when I do, it only takes a few minutes with a drill driver and hex bit.. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Since you brought that up, I use a rechargeable screwdriver and a magnetic parts dish from Harbor Freight. Stick the dish to the ways just below the chuck, and use it to hold all the jaws and screws. You can work a lot faster if everything is right there, and if any dropped part goes to the magnet instead of the sawdust on the floor.

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 8:35:07 -0700, mac davis wrote (in message ):

never heard of this beginner vs experienced thing before. where did you hear that?

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 8:40:14 -0700, mac davis wrote (in message ):

if you dont mind changing jaws thats fine for you. i cant stand it.

On Sat, 30 Apr 2005 9:31:10 -0700, Leo Lichtman wrote (in message ):

using the magnetic parts dish is a good tip. i dont change chuck jaws but there are other times when that will come in handy.

There sure are a lot of well-known and experienced turners, professional and amateur, using what you call "beginner" jaws. That is just not true. The Oneway profiled jaws are made to give optimum holding power period. In my experience the marks they put on the tenon are relatively minor but present nontheless. However, I think it is poor practice, unless you are trying to turn out a 100 pieces a day, to leave any mount external or internal without a final clean-up. This renders any marking meaningless. Billh

Hi other Leo

Leo I do agree, with the thought that they dropped the ball with the jaws not overlapping, First time that this happened (never happened again right) I couldn't believe it, as it was, I had just turned a bowl outboard, and it was to large for returning the spigot between centers, inboard, so I pulled the pin out of the #4 jaw and was the able to hold the oversize spigot, turn a recess and than cut the spigot to size. Having to do all of that is a pain in the ass, and we should not have to do that, the chuck itself is a very high quality chuck, and for holding over the whole range of size it is able to grab, the jaws are superior to any of the other makes of chucks, IMO. So for lack of any better I will again buy a Oneway chuck next time. Hope they (Oneway) will improve on that, before I need another one.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

Leo Lichtman wrote:

Billh

If you create no marks with the holding device, you're already cleaned up.

I should have been more specific and this applies to external tenons which I tend to use. IMO, the last thing I want the bottom of my bowl to look like is a tenon. My final cleanup means removing all or part of the tenon and blending the remainder if any into the bowl shape. Billh

well, I find that I use the standard set most of the time.. probably in the last 50 or 60 things I've turned, i've needed the spigot jaws, so that sure doesn't warrant another $175 chuck..

Hell, it's only a min. or 2 more to change jaws then it would be to change the chucks.. lol

If time was more important than money, I guess I'd just go to a vacuum system..

mac

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here's a good reference:

mac

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All the talk about "grip" makes me wonder. Why have they never thought about the contact area on the nose of the jaws?

Of course there are woodworkers who don't realize that the shoulders of the tenon are what keep the joint from racking, too.

On Sun, 1 May 2005 8:36:15 -0700, mac davis wrote (in message ):

I agree. On the bottom of my bowls I don't want any indication of how they were mounted. Personally, I tend to view a recess where the jaws held as "bush league". Others are welcome to disagree, but leaving a tenon or rebate in the bottom, to me, detracts from the design element and elegance of the piece. If one leaves the mechanism by which they held the bowl visible, the holding device has 'left a mark' so to speak.

I may be only making treen, but I want it to be as nice of an example of treen as I can make it, and that means taking the bottom onto consideration to the same degree as the rest of the piece.

If one is happy leaving evidence of mounting, live it up. For me it doesn't work...

...Kevin

S'later...

...Kevin

Absolutely George. I'm sure they have given no consideration to the needs of woodturners. By "george".... I will be sure to turn to you before my next woodturning tool purchase and to hell with anything this upstart company (Oneway) has to say. You have made it abundantly clear you have nothing but disdain for them.......... My opinion??? Thought you'd never ask...... !! I would be willing to bet a spalted chunk of dog manure they have forgotten more about woodturning in the last ten minutes than you are likely to learn in two lifetimes..... Course I also could be wrong......(no grin) !

Snip........

Sorry as hell here mac but I fail to find the reference to "beginning or less experienced". Must be my damn eyes. Help me out here.........................

wrong......(no

Never a word against Oneway from this quarter. I think you're putting your opinion in while you think you're reading others'.

My objection is to distortion of the piece, so I guess your distortions would fall into that same category. Thanks for lowering the level of discourse.