I have a 2-3 Morse taper adapter stuck onto a #2 Jacobs chuck taper. I tried tapping a Morse taper wedge into the side slot. I tried applying Liquid Wrench. I tried tapping with a nail set. I looked for another Morse taper key at Sears, but the guy did not know anything about Morse tapers. I Googled this without much help. Anyone have any ideas? I did not force this adapter into the adapter, yet it seems like it is permanently stuck. Please help.
Try hitting the end of the #2 with a hard face dead blow hammer. Hold the #2 morse in your hand, over something that will catch the adater (bench).
Try hitting the side of the taper with rapid and hard hammer blows while forcing the drift into the slot.
Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter
Some tapers have flat areas on the back or holes through and through - or both. I'd try to stabilize the 2 with a strap wrench or cushioned pipe wrench, and give a quick twist on the three using whatever hold is available. Might even be bored for a draw bar, where you could use a bolt to eject the #2.
Phisherman wrote, "I looked for another Morse taper key at Sears, but the guy did not know anything....."
A paradigm of unnecessary redundancy. Forgive and let us know what worked. :)
Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter
Can you see the tang end of the taper inside the slot? If so, retry the wedge and give it a good rap or two or three. I've had them stick pretty well, but when you drive the wedge hard enough, they'll pop out - as long as you are sure the wedge is prying against the end of the taper.
Hi Phis
Questi> I have a 2-3 Morse taper adapter stuck onto a #2 Jacobs chuck taper.
"Arch" wrote: A paradigm of unnecessary redundancy. (clip) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :-) Arch, I hope you realize that this is an example of NECESSARY redundancy, since, without it, the statement wouldn't be nearly as funny.
About 2 weeks. My shop is dry so there is little rust, although I don't rule this out. The taper inside belongs to a Jacob's chuck and the #2-3 sleeve were both purchased at Woodcraft recently.
I'll keep you posted. Thanks
If the other suggestions havn't worked try freezing it or heating the outside with a torch (gently!) or hair dryer and then giving it a good rap with a block of wood or non-marring hammer. A little thermal stress often breaks frozen joints. You can even do both--stick the inside piece into ice water and heat the outside
Roger (delete .geentroep to respond)
That's a good point. I can see the tang end of the taper inside the slot, ever so slightly. When the wedge is inserted it doesn't touch the taper end, so I slightly ground the edge of the wedge to chamfer it, which that did not work. I was hoping to find another wedge type to buy.
Today I asked a friend to get apart the taper. He worked on it for half hour yesterday and another 20 minutes today, and gave up!
I'm thinking of two ideas...
If/when I get this apart I plan to expand the slot a little in the adapter.
snip
If I'm reading this right, you have a small area (where you're putting the wedge thing?) where you can see the rear/smaller end of the taper? If so, find the largest piece of brass rod that will fit through the opening and rap it a couple hard ones with a hammer.. The brass is softer than the taper or taper "receiver" and won't scratch or hurt anything.. As others have said.. catch the taper when it comes out, or it's guaranteed to land someplace that will damage it, be hard as hell to get out of and break something else.. (been there, done that)
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
If you are making contact with the wedge, tap it in enough to set it in place then take the whole assembly, turn it around so the wedge is facing downward and, while holding both ends, slam it into something solid for all you are worth and then some.
If one or two raps like that don't break it free, decide to buy a new one and toss the old one in the trash. If you REALLY mean to discard it, the tapers will simply fall apart as soon as you turn your head. ;-)
Bill
Don't give up hope,sounds to me like there may have been some been some fine rust or something else on the 32 taper or inside of the #3 cup that have caused this seizure because I note that you say that the tang of the #2 taper is barely visible.. So here is what I would do, I don't think this would hurt anything,, I'd get hold of the upper tang of the #3 cup with a good pair of vise-grips, get something good and soft for the #2 taper to land on, a small ball peen hammer and a propane torch. Now holding the #3 by its tang with the vise-grips vertically over the area that you have prepared for the #2 taper to land heat the outside area of the #3 cup gently starting at the bottom of the cup and working you way up, turn the cup or torch around and heat all around the #3 cup evenly and don't over heat the cup just get it fairly hot work your way around it and up the distance that the #2 taper is in the cup..The metal of the cup will expand just enough to release its grip on the #2 taper because it will expand faster than the #2 taper. Once you have done this if the taper didn't fall out while you were heating the cup gently tap the #3 cup all the way around starting at the bottom and working your way up, you may even tap the #2 taper and it may fall right out. be careful doing this and ware gloves too because the heat will be coming up to the hand that is holding that is holding the vise-grips. OH and most of all,, let both parts cool naturally! Once everything is apart and cooled off check the inside of the cup and the taper for any sort of bur or damage that may have caused this to happen, maybe all they need is a good cleaning with some 320 or 400 grit emery paper before inserting them together again. Best of luck
----- Original Message ----- From: "Phisherman" Newsgroups: rec.crafts.woodturning Sent: Monday, February 14, 2005 11:01 AM Subject: Stuck 2-3 Morse taper adapter
"Phisherman" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...
I tried freezing the assembly and heating the outside, but this didn't work either. I called Woodcraft (where I bought these items) and explained the issue and they asked me to bring it in. I did. One of the workers there who specialized in turning, took the assembly to the shop where I watched him work. He had a narrow wedge that was too small so he fit two allen wrenches on either side, whacked the adapter, and it came loose! It turns out that my wedge key was not hitting the tang enough, but the use of the allen wrenches was enough. He did say it was the toughest frozen Morse taper he ever dealt with. I examined the taper and there was a layer of very light rust on it, although it is smooth and undamaged. Thanks to all ideas here.
Yeah Phish
Phew! Now I can lean back in my chair again.
;)
Today I cleaned up the adapter and the #2 Jacob's chuck pin. The tang end of the chuck pin has a tapped hole. (Not sure the reason this tapped hole is there?) I found a machine screw that fits this hole such that when the pin is placed into the 2-3 Morse adapter the wedge key hits the top of the machine screw when inserted through the side slots of the adapter. This solves any future freeze-ups on the adapter. To show my appreciation of the Woodcraft employee, I will be writing an email to store manager.
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