wood face plate

Another source -- go to

and look at product # 2597A12

-- about $60.00. You may be able to find cheaper still.

Bill

Paul Gilbert wrote:

Try McMaster Carr at mcmaster.com. Look at part # 2597A12. Less than $60

Paul, try using your lathe spindle threads as their own tap. Drill a piece of hardwood or MDF a little undersize and if you need to, strengthen the sides of the hole with CA glue. Screw it on the spindle and face it if necessary,

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Try

They have at least one as inexpensive as $43, but may have another version even cheaper. For wood, I wouldn't worry about the quality of the tap, but if I were doing steel, I'd want better quality. tt

If cost is an issue, Granger is seldom the proper place to shop.

KBC tools

>

Try woodcraft.com

Faceplate 1 1/4 x 8 $29.99

Henry

Do what I do. Imbed a nut in a wooden disk. Hold it with epoxy. You can also make excellent vacuum chucks this way.

aaah, angelo - that's almost 6X what I sell them for....

but he wants to use wood not metal.....

I have done this with 18mm MDF and laminated two layers together.

The first layer had a cut-out for the nut and was 3 to 4" diam. The second layer was a larger disc from which I have made sanding discs, discs for pushing bowl rims against using the tail stock as support when cleaning up the bottom and also for fitting inside bowls with natural edges.

In all cases I have woodscrews holding the layers together as well as gluing. I started using the screws after I had a disc delaminate which was out of balance before I had the chance to true it up.

It did not delaminate at the glue joint but in the body of the sheet. Not as exciting as scattering a bowl all over the workshop but not something you want to put on your 'To do' list.

I also use a thick washer(s) on the drive spindle so that the nut does not lock up against the land on the spindle but against the washers. I feel this also helps to pull it square as there will always be some slack on the threads.

MDF works for me within the limits above but I have not, nor would I, use it where there is high or intermittent loading.

BillR

I picked up my not too commonly stocked taps (7/8-14) on eBay for maybe

6 or 8 bucks each. I forget from whom exactly I bought them but it was one of those "eBay stores". Ditto for the 13/16 drill bit to accompany it. (The drill bit isn't exactly necessary for tapping wood but it is for re-threading the equally inexpensive Sears 3/4-16 faceplates that I bought on closeout for 8 bucks.

J.

Paul Gilbert wrote:

Sorry I am not more help on where to get a 1 1/4 x 8 tap, but there are instructions for the wooden faceplates over my web site as well as instructions for a wooden screw chuck and sanders.

Back to the OP. Paul, since you want a tap to make home made wooden faceplates, why not make a home made tap? Nothing more than a bolt same size as the lathe's spindle and as hard as you can find. Grind 3 narrow slots lengthwise a little deeper than the threads and sharpen the edges with a file. Viola! It's a tap and good enough for wood and most woodturners. :)

Turn to Safety, Arch Fortiter

Thanks for pointing out his wanting wood. Did not read carefully.

I have marked your web page for future reference. 8 is much better than 29.

I am new to turning. Did one spindle turning for practice and then switched to doing bowls.

arch's approach will work - but the OP will find it no easier to locate a

1.25X8 bolt than a nut or tap - so I guess here is where I point out that you can get a short length of 1.25X8 threaded rod from me if you want and then follow arch's instructions and see how it works - the rod is semi-hard -much harder than your typical hardware store bolt, so if you cut your groves properly it should cut just fine in most woods. (look in the faceplate section of

bill n

Here ya go