Several months ago I found what looked to be a large limb in an antique shop. When I picked it up I could not believe how heavy it was -- on close examination, I knew immediately what it was -- Desert Ironwood. I paid $3 for it. It was decades old, dirty and gnarled, but still promising. I turned it down to get to the heartwood and was disappointed in the amount which ended up on the floor, but what was left looked promising. I looked at that cylinder for a long time, trying to come up with a shape which would make the most of what was left. Here's what I came up with.
Wood is where you find it -- desert ironwood
Around a decade ago we purchased some desert ironwood carvings which were primitive, but nicely finished and quite attractive. Since then I've attempted to find some of that wood, but without success. Your find was fortuitous. Guess I'll keep searching.
Max
I also have several of the carvings also which I purchased in Mexico. I find them in thrift shops from time to time, almost always carved in the shape of fish, animals or birds. I have picked up a few with broken fins, beaks, feet, etc. to cut up for pen blanks. They are usually dark brown on the exterior, but often gold or orange brown inside. The piece I turned into the box was also dark on the exposed portions, but had some wonderful gold color inside. I expect that it will darken with age also.
Ken
Craft Supplies in Provo used to get some desert ironwood (Olneya tesota IIRC) on occasion but I never did see it in their catalog. Possibly the supply was not dependable or the quantities large enough to justify adding it. I bought a couple of big pieces of it when I was there some years back so it might be worth phoning them and asking if they have any available. BTW it is beautiful stuff to work with although it stinks a bit while turning and sanding. A turned box I made with it is amazingly stable and the finish, despite being only wax, has stayed perfect despite much handling.
You are certainly correct in so far as the smell. I always wear a respirator when sanding, but when I drilled out the base prior to scraping the inside, my shop stunk for a couple of days. My piece has only a touch of wax on the surface, it really polishes nicely.
What has been your experience as to darkening, John? Or was yours dark to begin with?
Ken
The box in question
============================ If you use a finish with a UV blocker, it will slow the darkening. It's not a true preventative, but will help preserve the colors a while longer.
Ken Moon Webberville, TX
Ken, beautiful, I believe you got your $3.00 worth. I am going to keep my eye open for old chunks of wood when my wife drags me into antique shops from now on. Thanks for the tip. Nashville, Ga.
Ah, I learned something today. So, apparently the wood darkens with age and exposure to what? UV? Air? I assumed the dark brown color was natural heartwood. Or perhaps a stain used by the Central American carvers.
Max
The limited amount of ironwood that I have cut has always had some gold or light brown mixed with the streaks of very dark brown, almost black sections. (See John McGaw's posts on topic). The carvings that I have seen and/or purchased are almost always dark brown and fairly uniform in color. I suspect that the carvers apply some sort of stain or top coating to make the color uniform. I read somewhere that they use brown boot stain and/or brown shoe wax, but that may just be some misinformation.
Ken
I met a carver who worked in ironwood at a show in Houston several years ago. He did use shoe polish as his finish
Kip Powers Rogers, AR
================================= Shoe/boot dye is a common means of coloring wood, but you have to be sure you're getting the spirit/solvent based dye. Some of the "dyes" are more like ordinary liquid shoe polish, and don't penetrate the wood surface; just sort of sits on top, like a paint. What I use is Fiebing's dyes. Started using it 45 years ago for my boots in the Marines and haven't had occasion to change it. It smells like it may have toluol or toluene in it, so work with it in a ventilated area. Let dry overnight, brush with soft shoe brush, then wax with either wood wax or good (Kiwi or equevalent) shoe wax. Polish with soft cloth, sprinkling with a few drops of water as you finish.
Ken Moon Webberville, TX
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