workpiece holding question

Hello Bill,

I started turning on a lathe that fits the description of yours. There are basically two fairly good solutions: first, saw a cross on the drive end of the wood so that the prongs can fit considerably into the wood. Unless the wood is too soft, this should enable a catch to stop your lathe without routing a hole. The second is to use a tailstock cup center that is lot a live center. This will allow the wood to stop when you get a catch without much or any damage to the wood. Your catch will not do much damage to your turning either, since the wood will stop when you have a catch. This requires you to use lighter cuts and actually increases tool control.

A third option might be to use a good sharp gouge and perhaps cut down on the number of catches. The Oland-style tool, in my opinion, is best suited for hollowing end grain and not for spindle turning.

Fred Holder

Ah,well, the mention of "better quality firewood" is _not_ so silly.

Heat-value of different kinds of wood is almost exactly correspondent to the density of the wood.

Harder wood means higher density, means better heat-value, usually also means higher cost.

But the higher cost gives you that much more heat pr. weight unit, _and_ plenty more fun for the lathe:-)

Go to it!

Bjarte

Tighten up the tailstock when it does that. Soft wood will do that, and even if you grind off two of the prongs on the drive center, it will still spin. Just tighten it up and be on your way.

Thanks for the help. For the record:

Bill W

Bill, In addition to the other excellent suggestions, you can sharpen your prong center. Hold it up in front of you, looking sideways at one of the prongs--you'll see the leading side which is straight up to the point, and the trailing side is curved. Put the curved side to a grinder, at the right side of the wheel--keeping the point away, of course. Don't grind the straight leading edge at all, just the curved side to give an angle at the point of about 25-30 degrees. Not necessary to grind nicks from the edge, just so it's sharp.

Ken Grunke

Bill, you got just about all the good answers there are for this situation. I grind off 2 prongs (it's easier to cut a slit rather than a perfect cross); I sparpen the prongs (not a lot, just enough to make them thinner and sharper; I tighten up on the tailstock not just when it slips but after a few cuts, the wood loosens. Possibly this is why you're getting catches, especially on spindle turning. Not that it's not common to get catches when turning between centers, it's just not that common. The only time I get catches turning spindles is when I'm using the skew and reading something at the same time. kidding : )

Take care, Ruth

Saw the cross if you can. Sharpen with a file as advertised, and tap the prongs in with a _wooden_ mallet. Metal is going to peen the end of the taper.

For a suggestion on gouge angles for roughing - though these are for bowls, take a peek at

Hi Bill

One suggestion after all the other good advice, get a larger spur center.

And practice, practice so you do not get catches with a spindle gouge, an oland tool is good for face plate turning not so good for spindle turning, just don't give up, more practice and if possible get someone to hold your hand, a book and video, dvd etc. is also a good help.

Have fun and take care Leo Van Der Loo

snipped-for-privacy@charter.net wrote:

================== Ruth, Can you post us a video of that??

Ken Moon

Ruth wrote: ....snip.... "The only time I get catches turning spindles is when I'm using the skew and reading something at the same time. kidding : )

Ken, I could but then I'd have to close the book to hold the camera. I'm good, but I'm not that good. : )

Ruth

Use the timer.

Good point on the tightening, Ruth... it also snugs the taper, unless they hit it in with a hammer first..

I used to think that the spurs were digging or turning after a few cuts but realized as I was tightening the tailstock, that the live center wasn't moving into the wood, the taper was snugging up in the tailstock..

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

"Ruth Niles" wrote: Ken, I could but then I'd have to close the book to hold the camera. I'm good, but I'm not that good. : ) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Ruth, count me as the first to volunteer to come and hold the camera for you.

Leo Lichtman wrote: Ruth, count me as the first to volunteer to come and hold the camera for you.

Hi Leo! I've missed you. Thanks for volunteering, now I guess I have to make a video and become famous. : )

Ruth