Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?

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Specifically t-shirts?  I am appliquing things to t-shirts for Baby T,
and I have tried several different stabilisers, only to have them
"tunnel" when removed.  I tried several that tear away, and I have tried
a couple that stay in after you've satin stitched around your design.
So which stabiliser do you use when appliquing things onto a knitted
fabric?  (I realise that I should probably post this question in the
sewing newsgroup, but many of you here do garment sewing and
embellishing as well.....)


-- Jo in Scotland

Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


I don't want to get too technical here, Jo, (for me or you) but you must do
some testing to be sure that the tensions you are setting don't 'pinch' the
knit - or woven, for that matter.  Just routinely, when I do buttonholes, I
release the upper tension from a standard setting of 5 down to 3.  That
prevents the buttonhole from squeezing in a tiny pinch.  Translation if that
one shot right over your shoulder - a buttonhole is sort of the same thing
as a satin stitch.
    So.  Diddle with your tension settings.  Also, if you are hooping, you
just may be hooping too tight.  Knits have a 'memory' and will spring back
to where they like to be when released from the hoop.
    My current favorite stabilizers are the ones that disappear when soaked
for a little while in water.  I think these result in a softer surface for
baby skin.  Now that Baby T is talking, he may tell people that you make his
shirts itchy.  Polly


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Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


On 27/07/2010 22:20, Polly Esther wrote:
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Thanks for the tip - I think you mean something like "Sulky Solvy"?  I
don't use a hoop... hadn't even thought of that.  My usual tension
setting for the sewing machine is 3.5 and for the appliques I set it
down to 2.  It goes great for a while, then the thread snaps.  If I set
it lower, the "satin" of the stitch is lost, and the loops start
sneaking out from the sides to the middle.

Is it really so hard?  Should I just back these designs with
interfacing, stitch, turn, and hand applique?  I thought I was onto a
good thing here....

Baby T always wears a vest under his clothes anyway, so I don't think he
could have much itchiness.  He hasn't complained about anything yet (!)

Oh, and avacado is food from the goods apparently.  It's good enough to
make you wiggle all over and go "heh heeee!"



-- Jo in Scotland



Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


Lower the tension, then use soluble stabilizer on top, more soluble
and/or tear away on the bottom. If you hoop make sure that the
stabilizer is in the hoop so that you don't stretch the knit.
Bonnie, in Middletown, VA


wrote:

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Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


No, Jo.  It's not really so hard.  You just need to get a hunk of knit and
experiment until you get it right.  A 'too ugly to wear' t-shirt is an okay
testing ground.  I'm concerned that you're saying your thread snaps.  I
can't think of a reason for that to be adding to the equation.  Maybe you
need a different needle.
    You will be needing to do lots of appliqué for that sweet darling
through the years.  Might as well figure out how and write down thorough
notes.  Polly


"Bonnie Patterson" <
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Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


On 29/07/2010 03:24, Polly Esther wrote:
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One more question - do you use a pointy needle, because it's going
through quilting cotton (for the appliques) or do you use a stretch
needle because the base fabric is knit?


-- Jo in Scotland

Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


On Thu, 29 Jul 2010 16:33:01 -0500, Jo Gibson wrote

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I'd probably use an embroidery needle.  Which I guess is pointy?

Maureen


Re: Best stabiliser for knit fabrics?


You should use a ball point needle.  The sharper ones will cut the knit
fibers.  The ball point goes between the "loops" on knit fabric.
Gen

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