I'm working on a couple of different things right now, and on both I have questions.
One thing I'm making is tank tops from cotton rib knit. I've been playing around with one out of fabric I don't like before I start on the good stuff. I don't have any problems with basic construction--the serger does just fine. When it come to hemming, though, I'm stumped. Do I need to use a double needle on the sewing machine, or get a walking foot, or use some sort of stabilizer or something? It just keeps puckering and looks awful.
The other I'm just about to do a muslin of is a, hopefully, fitted dress shirt for my better half. I'm working on getting the pattern right, but I think I can manage that. I have to lengthen everything, since he's pretty tall. My question though, is about interfacing. What type of interfacing works best for the collar and cuffs of a dress shirt? Also, when cutting interfacing, should I be cutting slightly INSIDE the seam allowance such that the interfacing doesn't end up in the seam?
I really appreciate all the help y'all have given me on various projects! If I keep this up, one of these days I'll actually know how to sew!
The roller foot on my sewing machine works just fine. Play with it on some scraps, experimenting with different needles, tensions and pressures until you get what you want. I learned about this years ago when I took a "Sewing With Knits" course before sergers became affordable.
I'll let Teri answer this one, she is our resident expert on shirts.
Interfacing on shirts. I do something very different than most, but it works. I saw this done in the factory, and have had good luck. I use a very lightweight interfacing, and put it on BOTH sides of the collar and stand. I cut it from the same patterns that I use for the collar, and don't trim it out. I then grade the seams before turning them. Grading is essential to eliminate bulk. Oh, and I cut the collar and stand from the lengthwise direction, and if necessary, make whole patterns instead of the commercial ones that say "cut on fold." My interfacing of choice is Fusi-Knit. It's good in many areas. I NEVER use pellon-type interfacings; they tend to bubble and come loose after just a few washings.
And your knit hems. You do need to use a twin needle for best results, and it should be a twin needle meant for knits. Sew from the right side, don't stretch, and if there is a bit of rippling, press it. Don't go across the hem; press with the grain of the knit, and use lots of steam. It does wonders to eliminate ripples.
Like Mary said, you need to experiment on fabric scraps because it all depends on your machine and the fabric. I assume your serger does not have a coverstitch. First, I recommend that you get a little spiral notebook and keep it by your machine. Mark one page "Knits" and use it to make notes about what works with what. For instance, after playing with some scraps, you might make an entry something like this:
You could also cut a small piece of the fabric and pin it to the page. Some machines require a reduction of the foot pressure to sew knits without puckers and stretching. If your machine does not have that adjustment, you can try to compensate for that by gently pushing the fabric instead of pulling on it whilst you are sewing. You could also try a strip of tear-away stabilizer on the bottom. Some machines don't require that. I sew a lot of knits and I often use a twin stretch or ballpoint for the hem because it looks so nice. On my newer machine, I have to adjust the foot pressure for knits. On the older one, I don't have to do anything and it comes out perfect. On yet another machine, I have to play with the foot pressure, thread tension and use a stabilizer. You can easily see which machine I prefer to use for knits.
Yes, except for the collar points, the interfacing is sewn in the seam. Personally, I never use fusibles on men's shirts unless I am using a double layer of interfacing to achieve an especially stiff collar. For that (and *only* that) I'd cut the fusible ever-so-slighty smaller than the size of the finished collar (you will need to trace a pattern for that) and fuse that to a nice crisp sew-in before cutting the pattern on the sew-in. That way, you will achieve a crisper edge w/o the double thickness of interfacing. I always cut the collar interfacing the same size as the collar, snip the interfacing collar points just inside the collar point, and then trim very close to the stitching lines after I've sewn it in. That is so you can get a nice crisp point. I'm still using a bolt of Shirtmaker I bought ages ago. I interface the front band, the collar and the cuffs.
The reason I never use fusibles in men's shirts is that I have yet to find one adequate to the task that does not (1) eventually fall apart or rip; (2) shrink; (3) pill and wrinkle on the inside; or (4) bleed the fusing to outside of the shirt.
For the collar stand (all men's shirts must have a stand or they look like hell), I usually use one layer of sew-in interfacing. And, of course, the collar underside on men's shirts needs to be a two or three-piece affair to accommodate the stays. You will also need two flat-fell hemmer feet--- a wide one for the armhole seams and a narrower one for the side seams. Some people say they do flat-fell seams w/o the feet but you cannot achieve a professional look without the feet unless you spend an inordinate amount of time. You also need a rolled hemmer for the bottom. I mention all this because, in my opinion, there is no reason to spend time making something the man will never wear because it looks like a homemade woman's blouse.
My recommendation is to start with a short-sleeved *sport* shirt with a stand collar and a contoured bottom. Serge both the armhole and side/sleeve seams and then topstitch evenly, catching that serged seam, to fake the look of a flat-felled seam. Then do the bottom either by hand or with a rolled hemmer foot.
Just thought I'd give you all an update on my most recent projects, since it's with your help that they've progressed at all! The suggestions for the tank tops worked wonderfully and I'm wearing one of them even now!
Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on your point of view, I was contemplating the dress shirt for my husband when I got pregnant (we'd been trying for a year and a half). So...I've been feeling too sick to do ANY sewing. I'm hoping that by the end of the month, I'll have passed the "morning" sickness phase and can get back to doing things that require sitting up and mental concentration and other such things.... *sigh* At that point, I may well have more questions too.
I'm also going to try making myself some little bra-let/sports bra type things. I'm a cheapskate, have never previously had to wear bras, and find myself resenting the prices they ask for things which aren't even fitted!!! That too will have to wait, though I may try getting started on those on one of my good days, since they're a tad more necessary than my husband's dress shirt.
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