Light - Beyond Just Reflected Light

Posted this over in WoodCentral and figure there might be some here interested in this subject.

We have five senses - touch, sight, hearing, taste and smell. Of the five, turnings engages primarily sight, often touch and, surprisingly, sometimes smell. (OK - so sometimes someone will thunk a bowl and generate a sound, but that?s uncommon). Maybe it?s only turners who pick up a turned piece - and smell it - trying to identify the wood and/or the finish?

Once you get beyond functional turnings - spoons, bowls, rolling pins, tops, etc. - you?re in aesthetic territory where the goal of the turning is to engage its audience, specifically, to engage one or more of the audience?s senses. And since most turned pieces are typically only looked at / displayed - sometimes while inside a display case - we?re working in a visual medium - and therefore - light. Normally we must rely on reflected light to convey the piece.

That leaves us with surfaces, real or perceived, outlines, shadows and colors. The turner attemtps to create an interesting form, may utilize coves and beads, ogees and combinations of curves and angles, perhaps some texturiing, piercings, or maybe exploiting the figure in the wood, some added color or some branded pattern and sand blasting, wire brushing and charring are not uncommon these days. All rely on the presence or abscence of reflected light to convey something to the eyes of the beholder. With the exception of pierced pieces, most of the time we?re focused on the light reflected from the OUTSIDE of the piece, wood being normally an opaque material. Until recently, TRANSMITTED light - from INSIDE the piece - was impractical, incandenscent lighting bringing with it HEAT. Wood reacts to temperature changes. And when the temperature changes are relatively large, and relatively sudden, it often doesn?t react well at all

Some turn wood so thin that it becomes translucent. But to see the effect, a light source behind/inside the piece is required - turned lamp shades being an example. Wood that thin tends to easily deform and is pretty delicate, often proned to splitting and cracking.

Along comes compact fluorescent light ?bulbs? - the same amount of light as a comparable incandescent bulb - with less heat. But there?s still heat - thin wood?s nemesis. And even ?compact? fluorescent ?bulbs? aren?t all that small and compact.

Riding over the hill - in all its shining glory - an answer to perhaps an unasked question - The LED. Light with almost no heat! AND - they don?t draw much electricity so they don?t need an external AC power source or flashlight sized batteries - hearing aid sized batteries will do just fine.

Imagine a thin walled lidded form with a finial - on a pedestal, an LED and its little battery hidden In the finial to provide light from above, and another hidden in the pedestal to provide light from below. Now imagine the internal light dimming, going out, then getting brighter. You?ll see light from inside passing through the walls of the piece to your eye slowly change to only reflected light from the surface of the piece - and back again to mainly transmitted light, low spots in textures and carving changing from dark to light.

Consider the effect of the color of the internal light source(s) changing, changing, the contrast of the grain in the wood changing, depending on the colors of the internal light source.

So, internal lighting can be used to exploit translucency

-thinner walls mean more translucency - means brighter

-the color of the internal light and the color of the wood?s grain can change the look of the wood relative to what it looks like in terms of only reflected white light.

Imagine a piece with a smooth series of uninterrupted blended curves, no shadow lines or textures at all. Then imagine its internal shape, rather than paralleling the outside profile, has a very different profile, varying the wall thickness to later, when the piece is internally lit, produce stripes and circles and patterns - of light and dark - lighter where the wall thickness is small, darker where it isn?t.

Have enough ?challenges? getting uniform wall thickness, and the thought of trying to intentionally change the wall thickness - where you want to? Already turning through the sides of a piece occassionaly? Exploiting translucency isn?t the only option when playing with internal lighting.

Leave the walls as thick as you?re comfortable with - and use piercing to let some of the internal light out for the audience to see, or see then not see and then see again somewhere else depending on the angle and the location of piercings of the piece.

Freed from relying only on reflected light, internal lighting can open up whole new areas of turning to explore. Got some ideas for exploitng internal lighting? Care to share some of them?

Reply to
charlieb
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You could have a set, where the outside is quite different but there's a pattern to the translucent areas that unites them.

The only thing about LEDs though is they have a very focused directional light. I don't know if you could get away with a single light pointing down and expect it to get an even lighting of the piece.

You could have a turning within a turning (or something else) with the light source in between them. The internal piece could have textured surfaces to exploit the proximity of the light source.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

In message , charlieb writes

Actually its surprising how much heat several LED's together can put out. :)

A hearing aid size battery will have quite a limited life span

Hearing aid batteries are in general 1.5V

Depending on choice of battery Battery Size: Milliamp Hours:

675 600 mAH 13 260 mAH 312 130 mAH 10A 70 mAH 5A 35 mAH

If you want decent light from a high brightness LED, your going to need

30mA at least, let alone the voltage so more than 1 cell is likely

So you cab see with the best of batteries your only going to get 20 Hours, and in practice way less

Another thing to consider is that White LED's have minor colour variations, that may have an impact of how bright they are perceived, and may be affected by the wood colour. Although sold as white, they may have a slight tint of pink, blue, yellow. With pure white being least common

There some nice useless trivia

Reply to
John

In message , snipped-for-privacy@YAHOO.COM writes

You can change the focus by changing the shape of the lens, only problem is , the internal reflector is focused on the lens for maximum performance, though any change will normally widen the light pattern, the intensity will drop the wider the pattern. A trick that can be tried is to place one of these fancy glass beads in front of the lens, to diffuse the light or if there is excess light it can be diffused with petroleum jelly or grease proof paper (think professional photographer)

Another trick depending on what is being illuminated, say a banxia but would be yo use a light guide, or the poor mans version an old Bic Biro Clear plastic tube. The LED fits nice in the end, but DON'T glue it, any glue on the lens will distort the pattern

Reply to
John

I've been toying with an idea.

A center "core" of wood, say 3" square x 2" or 3" in height. Laminate 1/4" or 1/2" Plexiglas to this on the four sides. Now laminate this block on the outside with your wood of choice of sufficient size to make the form diameter you desire. On top of this block, laminate another piece of Plexiglas to cover the block, followed by another layer of wood of choice etc. until you get the desired working height.

Finish the bowl/vase/form inside and out.

Build a display stand/box with a center insert piece of clear Plexiglas about 1/4" smaller than the diameter of the finished pieces' bottom. Inside the stand/box, install a small battery powered (or you could use standard house voltage) light or leds. When the piece is on display and the stand turned on, the light should transmit thru the Plexiglas in the piece to illuminate the "rings" both inside and outside the piece. I can see so many variations on this idea with some minor adjustments, like slanting the Plexiglas rings during the lamination process or having the rings show only thru the outside or inside of the piece. I guess you could also segment the Plexiglas rings with a contrasting wood as well.

Like I said, I've been "toying". ;)

Bob Crawford

Reply to
Bob Crawford

Have you tried turning Plex? I ask as I recall it tends to be brittle and I wonder if it would shatter.

Reply to
Ralph E Lindberg

Not yet, but this is an idea I've got planned for the near future. I imagine that with the plexi laminated between wood layers, the brittleness shouldn't be a problem. I suppose we'll see soon. ;)

Bob

Reply to
Bob Crawford

I turned acrylic rod - with a quarter inch single bevel bench chisel and had no chipping problems at all. Had to sharpen more often, but light cuts were no problem. Also turned some thick walled PVC pipe and had no problem there either.

Today's plastics are NOT the same as the old WW II "plexiglass".

The idea of a segmented piece which includes modern clear plastic pieces is intriqueing as hell. With a "glowing rod", lit up by an LED on its bottom face, you wouldn't even have to hollow the segmented piece in order to get light out the clear plastic areas.

Reply to
charlieb

Bob:

Did you ever get around to turning a piece with plex in it?

Only did a couple of piece using internal LEDs and have since moved on to playing with jewelry ideas using some turned parts.

Did find a small light with very bright LEDs - at a pet supply store of all places - but haven't started a piece to use it - yet.

Internal lighting has a whole bunch of possibilities - which I hope SOMEONE continues to explore - AND share results.

charlie belden afflicted with TADD Turner's Attention Defecit Disorder Oh look! Some juniper to turn!

Reply to
charlieb

No Charlie, sure haven't. I did manage to get a piece of 8x10 Plexi from Lowes, just haven't had the time to start the laminating and such. SOON though! ;) I've been really pursuing the twisted finials lately. I tried the sandpaper wrapped around a dowel and set between centers on the lathe and it works great! While the belt sander worked well, the differing sizes of dowels on the lathe makes creating different spiral angles a possibility as well as spirals WITHIN spirals...i.e.. a 2" dowel for the initial spiral and then using a 1/2" dowel for another spiral inside the first.

It just never ends does it? lol

Hope you're well.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Crawford

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