Criollo Chocolate

Yes, the percentage is the total cocoa solids (defatted cocoa solids + cocoa butter). The names are just that, names. Apamate, Gran Saman, Mijao, Bucare, and Caoba are made using Carenero Superior beans (an elite, strong Criollo). Macuro, Cariaco, and Irapa are made using Rio Caribe Superior beans (a slightly less-prized, somewhat milder bean with a greater proportion of Forastero genes in it.)

For the Carenero family, the dark chocolates come in 2 different cocoa butter ratios: high (= smooth, melty) and low (= a bit rougher, dry). Apamate and Mijao are the high-cocoa-butter chocolates. Because of the particular formulae, they emphasize higher cocoa butter at the expense of defatted cocoa solids, so they're not as intense. Thus Gran Saman is hyperintense, Apamate merely strong, Bucare moderate, and Mijao somewhat subdued. The low-cocoa-butter formulations are also more appropriate when you're incorporating them into a recipe that already has very high fat, e.g. chocolate ice cream, chocolate decadence, or when they're going to be in an oven as chocolate itself, typically chocolate chips, where excessively fast melting could pose problems. The high-cocoa-butter types are better for coating, and for things with lower fat in the other ingredients, such as cake.

These aren't different types of chocolate, they're different delivery formats. The Baker's choice gives you a 1 kg bloc. Chef's choice gives you a box with 3 1 kg blocs. Essentially it's simply more chocolate.

As for which to use for a brownie, it's hard to tell without seeing your recipe. But if you want to choose El Rey, I'd probably go with the San Joaquin for brownies. Its flavour profile would be the best fit.

If you want to try Criollos, also check out Domori, Amedei, Bonnat, Michel Cluizel, or Valrhona, all of whom offer pure Criollo bars. I've listed them in order of which ones I'd try to find first, based on a combination of the number of different Criollo varietals they carry and the quality of the chocolate they produce. All of them are IMHO better quality-wise than El Rey.

is a great place to find many of them.The "big-name" criollo varietals are: Porcelana - the purest Criollo, also the one with the mildest flavour. Extraordinarily delicate. Don't bake it in anything - this one is best eaten straight.

Chuao - undeniably the most powerful, very "dark" in flavour. A legendary chocolate. Incredibly versatile: works well for straight eating, baking, ice cream, milk chocolate, you name it. Some people find its distinctive bitter finish jarring.

Carenero Superior - has an unmistakeable "tropical" flavour to it, complex and bold. It's acquired a stellar reputation in the last few years, which is by and large deserved.

Ocumare - commonly crossbred with Forasteros. The purebreed is a fairly mild, somewhat earthy/woody chocolate. A natural fit for brown sugar.

Java - actually, a region more than a type, but most cocoa sold specifically as "Java" is Criollo. Sharp and spicy, quite unlike the 4 above. It's got a creamy finish reminiscent of Porcelana, which makes it the ideal bean for milk chocolate, as many manufacturers indeed use.

Guasare - brand new and not so developed. I've not seen a pure Guasare bar yet. Earthy and deep, somewhat similar to Ocumare. El Rey may be experimenting with it.