Re: Lampwork Questions

Hi Wendy! This is a debatable issue, so what I say here is *my own personal opinion*. You *can* do each of those things, to varying degrees of success. The smaller the bead, the less likely it is to break from shock, generally. If you're using soft glass (Moretti, Murano, etc.) the beads are more sensitive to temperature changes. Most beginners start with soft glass. A fiber blanket is better than using the torch to flame "anneal", in my opinion. You can save those beads for later batch annealing in a kiln. Of course, putting the beads in a kiln immediately is almost always the best option, if you can. I *personally* would not sell any bead that has been batch annealed or not annealed in a kiln. Batch annealed beads (or beads cooled in a fiber blanket) are usually just fine for giving away, making into jewelry for yourself, or selling inexpensively as a hobby, in my opinion. Professional beads should definitely be properly annealed. That said, kilns are expensive, so make sure you love this art before investing. But once you get one, you'll probably love it. :) Have fun!!

Reply to
Kandice Seeber
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Yes, what you are describing is "batch annealing" and once you have batch annealed, your pieces are as strong as if you had production-annealed them...IF (and this is important!) there were not any invisible internal cracks in them before you annealed. You CAN weed out the ones with invisible flaws by putting your beads in the freezer for a few hours after annealing, then running them under hot tap water (or putting them through the dishwasher). The ones that have little invisible internal cracks will break from the stress.

Reply to
Kalera Stratton

Yeah, what she said - my post only addressed dealing with beads, it's simply not possible to batch anneal pices larger than about 1/2" in diameter. Above that, your breakage rate starts to get beyond the acceptable, and over about 3/4" you won't have many, if any, survivors.

Reply to
Kalera Stratton

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