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Spiral-eyed needles - test results

As promised, here's my analysis: I ordered the #8 sewing needle and the #26 Tapestry needle

The #8 sewing needle is a larger sewing needle than I like to use (I prefer #10's), but still works ok for general sewing and some of the larger (14 or 16 count) monocanvas pieces. I also tried it on 32 count evenweave project with a loosely-spread design (ie lots of open room), but it's a little to thick in the haft, and the eye would catch about 1/3 of the time. It never caught on normal material you'd use for clothing - I tried it on both heavy and normal-weight materials.

The #26 tapestry worked great on 28 count hardanger, but was too big for a tightly woven 32 count evenweave. I worked 4 solid rows in TW's Mermaid with it and had absolutely no problem with it. Which says a lot considering the amount of confetti stitching she likes. It works OK on the same 32-count design I tested the #8 needle with.

Both needles were very easy to thread, and the only time the eye caught is when I used the needle on a piece of needlework fabric too tight for that size needle anyway. I liked the #26 tapestry enough to order another one.

I also sent an email requesting a #28 Tapestry and a #10 sewing needle with a very sharp point. We'll see.

Fran

Reply to
Fran
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I'm confused. Sewing needles by their nature/design have sharp points. Also: Why would you use a sewing needle on canvas? Point taken: Glad it worked for general sewing on typical cloth.

Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Thank you for sharing your experiences with those new needles! Based on what you have said, I will save my money and stick with needles I already own and enjoy.

Reply to
Mary

I suspect Fran means sharper than what was supplied. I've found varying degrees of sharp on my sharps from different sources, as I'm sure you have too.

C
Reply to
Cheryl Isaak

Exactly. I like my sharps and sewing needles to be very very sharp. I will use a sewing needle for some thread types (like some silks) when embroidering becuase of the sharper points, and so decided to try it out on the cross-stitch peices just to see how it would work. I'm not much of a purist - I tend to go for whatever gets the my job done.

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Reply to
Fran

My question didn't have anything to do with being or not being a purist. I just wondered why you would use a sharp (size 8s are not that large) for fabric normally used for counted work. And I was confused by your comments. No other point was being made. :~) I, too, like No. 10 sharps or crewel. I haven't noticed a difference in sharpness between brands. About the only thing I've noticed between brands is the ease with which it threads, and the ease with which it glides through fabric. I miss the "old" Milwards (did I remember that right?). Now *those* were needles.

Dianne

Fran wrote:

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

Dianne, Man you have had better luck than I have. I've bought sharps at all manner of places (grocery store, dollar store, Woolworths, Kmart, WalMart, fabric store) and unless the package was a "real brand" (Singer, Dritz....), sharpness varied wildly.

Cheryl

Reply to
Cheryl Isaak

I've not tried much besides known brands. :~) Didn't realize that the points varied. Dianne

Reply to
Dianne Lewandowski

When you're buying for school or scout projects, sometimes those dollar bargains are tempting.

Won't bother with bargains when stitching to mend or for pleasure.

C
Reply to
Cheryl Isaak

Apparently, the space needed for the needle eye is too big to allow for the smaller sizes of needles. I wondered, but thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. Oh, well, such is life.

Reply to
Fran

I was wondering it that was the issue. From an engineer's view point, they would need smaller size stock (to make the needles) and to re-tool some of the equipment used. A very expensive undertaking and would require a huge bit of faith that enough smaller needles would be sold to make up the cash outlay for a second shop. Cheryl

Reply to
Cheryl Isaak

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