studio design ideas

I found some notes on this in

under Tip 15: building a Sink Trap. Full description, but no diagram, unfortunately!

Do a Google search on Gleco Trap

whatever size table you want, add 8 inches all around.

cover the table completely before using it with canvas-curtain non stretch material.

try to keep everything off the floor to hose the shop out once in a while.

use DEEP shelves! like 16 to 18 inches deep at least.

use shelving that isn't permanent in the height settings ~ you'll want to adjust them from time to time.

you might actually get by just well with no sink or running water. use the garden hose outside instead.

see ya

steve

steve graber

Thank you!!! Andrea

I have made several sink traps over time and have the odd drawing I could mail out (JPEGs) to anyone interested. Contact me privately at steve at bathpotters dot co dot uk

Steve Bath UK

In article , Jake Loddington writes

We used an old tub that had a wood (I would use plastic if I were making it now) divider down the middle. We would pore our dirty water buckets on the non-drain side of the tub. The partition was lower than the sides of the tub so that when the water was high enough it would overflow into the drain side but we never used it that way. When the clay was settled and the top water was clean we would simply bucket it over to the drain side. Real easy, quick and safe. If you could get a double sink made of steel from a salvage yard and then drill holes in the dividing section about 2/3rds the way up (assuming the type I have in mind that has a solid sheet of steel between what is essentially one sink with two drains). Close the drain on the side you will pore your dirty water (in fact have the drain from this side NOT go into your pipes but be able to go to a bucket under the sink when you want to clean the sink out).

I used an old garage metal storage cupboard for my damp closet. I used silicon to 'glue' down some plastic on the bottom and sides to make it more air tight and to keep the cabinet from rusting out. Plastic closets from Target or the like would work but I don't think they hold as much weight. I also picked up some metal stand alone shelving at a garage sale. I moved the bottom shelf up to be above bucket height so I can just slide my buckets of glaze or clay recycling under the shelves. I know you said that you want things all nice and new but I think that it still works to have the under part of your shelves clear to easily pull heavy buckets in and out of. If you get a new cabinet for your damp closet, I would still recommend the medal ones since they do hold more weight and I would still suggest lining them with heavy plastic (the stuff you get for covering floors when you paint) both to keep the moisture in and to keep the cabinet from rusting. I have forgotten a piece I left in the closet for weeks, rediscovered it (hidden on top) and it was still workable.

Thank you so much for this!! As bathroom is being renovated too now I know what to do with the old bath! I like reusing rather than throwing out ( I suspect most potters do).

In message , A&V writes

I've just read my copy of the latest 'Ceramic Review', and there's a review by Peter Lane of a new book by Virginia Scotchie called 'Setting Up Your Ceramic Studio', published by Lark Books / Sterling (no ISBN quoted).

A more unusual publication by Virginia Scotchie allows us to view, through plans and colour photographs, twelve independently designed and built pottery studios established in the south eastern United States. All reflect the needs and aspirations of the individuals concerned, and appear spacious and well lit while displaying examples of the ceramics produced in each. These personal experiences of solving a wide variety of problems would be helpful to anyone preparing to set up an ergonomically sound workshop, especially if they are in a position to start from scratch.

This could be useful, especially if you can persuade the local library to order it on your behalf . . .

Jake Loddington, POULTON-LE-FYLDE, Lancs. England

my table may be dusty from the canvas, but it sure is great to be able to wedge or whatever anywhere around the table.

steve

steve graber

Hi, Hope this idea doesn't come too late. I have always found that covering all my greenware and pouring room shelves with plasterboard (usually free if you don't mind checking the dumptsters in new home construction areas) does several things. You can put freshly poured pieces directly (after draining) on the shelf to finish drying, and dry pieces don't chip or break as easily. It also seems to keep the dust down and they can be wiped off with a damp cloth from time to time. Good Luck -- I hope to re-open a new studio soon. Sandy snipped-for-privacy@charter.net