Foundation Piecing

When I can afford it, I buy Carol Doak's paper. When I can't, I buy children's drawing tablets that are similar to newsprint. You want something that tears away easily and doesn't bleed the ink onto the fabric.

As Mary said, Carol Doak's paper is fine *if* you are going to print the design from the computer. I trace most of mine, from a master drawing, though, and I found that this paper was very difficult to see through. My preference is something fine, so that it can be used for tracing and can be sewn through easily, not too 'soft' - a little brittle is a good thing when it come to removing the paper. Ordinary greaseproof paper is excellent (not the waxed sort, though). If I am doing something really special, I will splurge and use Golden Threads paper (I love the stuff for many things). I tried the water soluble paper and I loved it, but *not* dissolving it! I found that it left a residue under and between the stitches, like fibres. So I use it, but take the paper off in my usual way (scoring along the stitching line).

If you can find a fine copy paper, from a stationery store - like the fine paper that used to be used for the carbon copy (that dates me!), that also is very good. . In message , Robyn writes

If mine is going through the printer I like Carol Doak's best and so does my printer. I bought a packet of That Patchwork Place's Papers for Foundation Piecing which described itself as 'the paper more quilters prefer' but found that my printer doesn't like it and jams up almost every time, even when I change the paper setting so I'm using it up for hand-tracing on when I'm machine stitching (it's thinner than the Carol D stuff so you can see through it).

If I want to hand piece I use Stitch n'Tear (hand-trace not printer). I find that when you hand sew (I use a backstitch)it softens up and acts like a thin interfacing, but you can tear it away easily at the end.

So three different papers for three different methods.

Sally at the Seaside ~~~~~~~~~~ (uk)

Hi,

For me, the best is one that doesn't cost me anything. Often the tissue that comes with clothing purchases, or the back side of ordinary paper. Depends if I'm tracing or not, usually I do trace. (Printer lines are often a bit thick.) Another option is not to use paper at all -trace on interfacing or leftover muslin, and just leave it in. Depends of course on what you're making. Also, I don't get too upset about teensy scraps of paper left in the seams. They don't show. Roberta in D

"Robyn" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:8Bp2k.8493$ snipped-for-privacy@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

And here's a 4th method. Next time, I'm going to use a thin fabric and just leave it in the blocks. After removing bits of paper from an entire squadron of airplanes, I decided I had enjoyed all of that I could stand. Polly

"Sally Swindells" If mine is going through the printer I like Carol Doak's best and so

I agree with others who have said that they prefer Carol Doak's paper for printing from the computer! It's wonderful stuff, and I can't bring myself to go back to using regular printer paper -- way too thick. I haven't hand traced a pattern in a long time, but Carol's paper would be difficult for that, since it's not easy to see through. Maybe some old-fashioned onion skin paper? *If* it still exists! LOL

I like to use the Carol Doak's Foundation Paper from C&T Publishing. It is great to use, and meets Carol's high standards.

Pati, > Hi,

I like either Carol Doak's paper or architectural vellum.

DON'T use regular paper. You will be so frustrated!

Happy quilting,

Lenore

I'm a big fan of Judy Mathieson's freezer paper method. No little pieces of paper to pick out of the seams! :)

So am I, Kathy; but I haven't yet done anything complex. Have you? How does it work when seams cross others? It does have a lot to commend it. And, if it will work with complex stuff, I might change over to it completely. . In message , Kathy Applebaum writes

That really is a good technique, Kathy. I forget to use it because I've been doing a lot of Carol Doak's patterns.

I've done several Mariner's Compasses with it, as well as a pieced iris in a Ruth McDowell class. The iris was definitely complex, and the MC's, while not super complex, had a lot of little fiddly points that needed to match.

It works great when seams cross others. Because the freezer paper either stops at the seam line or is folded back, it doesn't get in the way of your seam, but you still have all the markings to help you line things up. If for some reason it *is* in the way, you can always peel it back just a bit. And the freezer paper gives you more stability, even in areas where you haven't sewn yet, so the bias edges don't get wonky.

It did take me a block or so to really get the hang of the idea. Once the light bulb went on, I never wanted to go back. :)

Someone once recommended the sort of paper that they put down on the doctor's examining couch. I tried it and it works quite well! So next time you're in for something, just ask. Although no one has bothered to ask me what the rustling noise was as I got changed in there....

-- Jo in Scotland

This sounds excellent, Kathy. Thank you very much for your 'report'. I have Ruth McDowell's pieced flowers book, so I'll have a go at the paper pieced iris and see if I can manage it. I have the other method so ingrained that it might take me more than a block or two!! . In message , Kathy Applebaum writes

I did all the rctq paper-pieced BOMs this way, sort of, using just regular paper and sewing along the fold. Roberta in D

"Patti" schrieb im Newsbeitrag news:$ snipped-for-privacy@quik.clara.co.uk...

Did you! Gosh, that's fantastic news. When my day of liberation comes, (not long now!), I will be able to experiment with the more complex pieces. I thought at first that after *that* day, I would just ignore P&Q for a while; but now I find I am eagerly planning which of my stashed away projects I'll start on!. I'm quite relieved, because, at one stage, I felt as if I didn't want to do any more at all. Now this little subject comes up, a new technique for me, and I'm all excited again. I'm so glad. Thanks Roberta. With you and Kathy backing the method, I should be fine! (I'll know where to go with questions anyway!) . In message , Roberta Zollner writes

Just to be clear, although I did the iris in her class, it wasn't from her book -- we all did original designs.

Thanks Kathy. I'll still have a look at it, as I have no other! I have tried a simple MC - perhaps a more complicated one will be a challenge. I'd love to do a 32 pointer >g< However, I have recently seen some designs where part f the block is detached from the main part and seems to be floating away into space. That is sort of appealing to me, as far as MC is concerned. I have a nice oval one I've been wanting to do ... ... . In message , Kathy Applebaum writes

I hadn't heard of this method so I went googling - found this link for anyone who wants more info:

Looks like a good idea - hope I can remember it when I'm doing PP next time! Allison