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crepe backed satin

my mock up's done! yay!!!! it wasn't as easy as i thought it would be. but since all the "figuring out's " been done, the real deal shouldn't take as long.

I feel like such a pest, but i have one more question for you :)... so once i sewed the lining in, and turned it rightside out, everything was really bulky. I was able to flatten out most of the edges by pressing and steam, but the one place where the bulk remains is at the shoulder seams (presusumably because the shoulders contain the sleeve seams, the bodice seams and the lining seams) I've tried to flatten it out by pressing and while it helps some, it doesn't flatten it completely. The instructions mentioned something called "layering" the seams... would this be helpful? (also, what is it? lol) Or maybe clipping the seams? I was even thinking of trimming the seam allowances but was having daymares about the dress falling apart at the wedding!!

Thank you so much for all your help :) You and Wurstergirl really helped me figure out this pattern :)

Reply to
ena86
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Did they mean 'grading'? That's trimming down the different seam allowances to different widths so they lie flatter, with no hard edges... Clipping goes from the cut edge *almost* to the seam - but not THROUGH it! It works even better if you clip the different layers in different places, so the clips are off-set from each other. :) Both help to make things lie flatter, look smoother, and reduce bulk where it isn't wanted.

Reply to
Kate Dicey

No, No, NOOO!! This is *exactly* what this NG is for, and I am quite enjoying reading about your project.

Reply to
Melinda Meahan - take out TRAS

Sorry to have missed your question this morning. I concur with Kate that you're better off with the lightweight interfacing. With the understitching it should do a nice job.

POra

Reply to
wurstergirl

Hi Ena,

Sounds like you're having a good go at that dress. Layering or GRADING (as it is often refered to) is trimming the seam allowances so they are all different to get a flatter look.

So, if you have 4 layers of fabric in a seam, leave layer 1 alone, trim

1/8" off layer 2, trim 1/4" of layer 3 and trim 3/8" off layer 4. Then press your seam - see - much flatter! Might be something you want to make a couple of little test samples of to practice on. The main thing I find with doing this is to watch were your scissors are going! It can be *so* easy to have accidents and cut what you shouldn't! (BTDTGTTS!). Cut across corners at 45deg to get the bulk out of them.

Clipping and notching of the seams is to help ease fabric round curves. Clip for an outward curve, notch for an inward. The tighter the curve, the closer the spacing of the clips and notches.

These techniques are illustrated in Readers Digests Sewing, and other sewing books - perhaps worth checking out your library? SOme of these things are much easier to see inpictures than words!

HTH

Sarah

Reply to
Sarah Dale

hey kate... may i please ask one more question :)

so on the pattern, instead of bust darts, there are gathers under the busts instead. now, i'm having some trouble getting them to look nice. the pattern doesn't specify where to place the basting for the gathers ie, at the seam line? or a little below? etc. also the bodice is lined, so should i baste and gather through the lining as well or just the crepe backed satin? and would you suggest larger stitches for the baste or smaller ones?

thank you so much!!

Reply to
ena86

of course! :)

Gather both the lining and the fashion fabric. There *should* be a couple of dotd on the seam line to tell you where to gather between.

Use a slightly larger machine stitch than you'll use to sew the seam. and do two lines of stitching about 1/8th of an inch apart, just a tad inside the seam line.

You're welcome. :)

Reply to
Kate Dicey

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