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Help, starting a seam

Whenever I start a new seam (old Singer walking foot, upholstery thread, vinyl or leather material, 4 layers thick) I pull both threads to the back of the machine. Invariably after one or two stitches the top thread gets pulled out and jumbled up under the bottom of the material. What I think is happening is that because of the extreme top tension on my top upholstery thread, the needle, on the upstroke, finds it easier to pull the thread out of the previous stitch than off the spool through the tensioning devise. All of this can be avoided if I hold on tightly to the loose end of the top thread when making the first two stitches. After that the previously locked stitches pose higher friction than my upper thread friction so, therefore, the tread comes off the spool instead of out of the previous stitches. I invariably make the first two to three stitches by hand (turn the sewing machine manually) while I hold on to the loose thread ends.

Anybody have a better idea. This machine has no reverse, and, since the stitches are decorative (often in leather) its not like I can go back and forth over the first area to lock down the threads. This would look awful on the finished product plus it would perforate the leather.

All ideas and workaround suggestions welcome.

Thanks,

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary
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What you are describing is perfectly normal for sewing on a sewing machine.. You always should hold the thread "tails" for the first few stitches on any sewing machine.

It is also normal to take the first few stitches manually. So I guess that I am baffled as to what you think you should be able to do..

When you cannot back up your machine at the start of any seam, you should tie the tails of threads together manually to lock the start of the seam before cutting them off. should you wish the knot to be on one particular side of your work, thread the tail on the other side of your work into a regular hand sewing needle, and pull it through to the side of your work that you want the knot to be on , and then tie your knot with the 2 thread tails. I would tie at least a full square knot against the work to hold the thread ends securely.

hth,

me

me

Reply to
jusme

I sew on upholstery machines...sometimes you have to start with the needle "stabbed" in the material..that way there is not up-take to put tension on the first few stitches...doesn't sound like it makes sense..but try it. Perry

Reply to
cajunpaisley

Thanks Jusme and Perry!!

You have shown me that what is happening is normal. I will try the needle down technique.

Thanks again.

Ivan Vegvary

Reply to
Ivan Vegvary

Ivan,

This happens when the machine isn't 'yet' sewing on fabric; that is, you've positioned the fabric so that the machine, when it makes its first couple of revolutions, is sewing on air.

You can use a 'scrap' piece of fabric to start sewing with the machine. I usually use a 2" scrap, sew on that until I get to the edge, then stop the machine, position the actual work against the scrap edge, and continue on.

-Irene=20

upholstery=20

Reply to
IMS

My machine has a combination clamp/thread-cutter behind the needle, so that if I use it to cut the threads after completing a seam, both ends are firmly held for starting the next seam.

But then I have to stop sewing and pull the threads out of the clamp

-- it's much easier to grab both threads with the left hand and turn the handwheel with the right hand.

When sewing a series of seams, I stitch off the end of one seam onto the beginning of the next, eliminating the need to hold the threads. Sometimes I keep a tiny scrap of fabric under the presser foot when the machine isn't in use. Then I'll start stitching on the scrap, stitch off it onto the seam, then cut it off the beginning when almost done with the last seam in the series, and stitch off the seam onto the scrap again so that it can be left under the presser foot.

It's easier to start stitching with the needle down in the fabric. If for some reason it's particularly important for the motor to start stitching without a little push, crank the needle down past the middle of the stroke, so that it's just starting to rise. It's easier for the machine to lift the needle than to push it down, and it's desirable for everything in there to be already in motion when the motor tries to push the needle through the fabric.

When turning the handwheel, you can push harder when meeting resistance. A motor trying to push a tad more than it can handle will stall, and if you let it keep RRRRing, it will burn out. If you stomp the pedal to give it the extra power, it will suddenly take off out of control. So I nearly always start the machine with a little push.

Another tip: when you come to a crossed seam, and the extra layers of fabric are too many even when you turn the handwheel, lightly rock the handwheel back and forth, raising and lowering the needle like a tiny pile driver. It won't take long to drill through the lump. Keep turning by hand until you are quite sure you are back in standard conditions.

Joy Beeson

Reply to
Joy Beeson

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