McCalls 2233 - chef's coat

PI 719 seems to have more of a tail.

Yabut, P717 appears more like the unfitted look you want. And all the patterns on that site are US Civil war uniforms, not very close to a "man's mandarin jacket".

Well, there you go! Order one of those, you'd have *two* looks, AND a "pattern". ;-)

On the other hand, you've now changed from "Mandarin" to "Kung Fu". Maybe Sharon H. can give you guidance. Oh, Shaaaarrroooonnnn....

Beverly

Even if I did a mandarin jacket, I would be pulling it in somewhat so it didn't look like a bag on my. I like the mandarin collars, not so sure about the rollup cuffs, but don't like the bag look or the really rounded shoulder look on some of them. Not so sure about dem froggie buttons either.

This military style jacket might be interesting enough and fitted enough for me. Don't want to overdo it though. I don't think I would look good walking around looking like a cast off from the Sgt. Peppers album cover.

I know I'm being all over the map here, but just trying to clarify.

I sent an email to the military jacket folks asking a bunch of questions.

"Ah, grasschopper, move without desire through the tangled woods of men's fashion. It is better to look like a silk sack than a burlap general."

One good thing is I have a tailors dummy I made a couple of years ago, you know, with the tshirt and duct tape. I call it my unauthorized autobiography, because of the paunch on it. I'm not quite that pregnant any more, but there it stands to remind me. Unlike me in front of a mirror, it never pulls its belly in.

Ok, I think I've made up my mind. I want a Mandarin Fu jacket like they used to wear in the Civil War.

Wait, I want a Mandarin Fu jacket like Belgian chef's used to wear in the Civil War.

Yeah, but with *three* you get eggroll.

Kathleen

Just cut the brass buttons off an old uniform jacket and bury them in the gardfen for 3 years...

Or drop them into a bottle of Kim Chee for a few minutes.

Thanks. Here's what I got back on that military jacket:

"Yes, the pattern includes lining instructions

The sleeves are a two-piece sleeve - upper and lower. Not sure what you mean by "inset" - but the jacket is not cut on the square, like the shirts of the period. You have a center back and a side back piece that join - it's a curved seam, that creates the sleeve opening.

Yes, the pattern has a bit more "tail" than the 714 - this is the mounted services jacket style, which is pointed front and back - where the 714 is the "roundabout" - straight across, front and back. 719 also includes "bolster" pillows at the back, which were worn by the cavalry to keep their waist belts from riding up. However, you do not have to make them if you don't want to.

No, unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of finished jackets - but it is the typical mounted services or artillery jacket.

Yes, there are instructions with the pattern. They are reasonable - I could follow them - but there may be some steps where you have to make a leap or two. Period Impressions in general has decent directions - not perfect, but not bad. Hope that helps---if you have more questions, fire away!"

"duh" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com:

Past Patterns can be, um.... great or not-so-good. i haven't done any of thier men's, but some of the women's patterns just don't go together the way they say. either the instructions are spotty or the pieces don't quite line up. not good beginner patterns. have you looked at the Folkwear #133, Belgian Military Chef's Jacket?

"duh" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@d34g2000cwd.googlegroups.com:

heh heh. that pregnant belly is a pain to get rid of. just think how much worse it is for us females ;) lee

I might even have some dark tencel in my stash.

Switching subjects slightly, for a mandarin collar on a shirt, what height should those be? One inch? 3/4"

Make a mock-up in something stiff (such as heavy Pellon non-woven interfacing) and see what fits comfortably *under _your_ chin*. You can vary the height about as much as you want to. I think the emperors and nobles wore theirs *very* high (just as their females bound their feet), to appear to be "non-working" class.

Beverly

Just found this online regarding instructions in Period Impressions patterns:

Period Patterns are definitely not for the faint of heart or beginning sewer. My suggestion, if you want to use these patterns, is to completely ignore the instructions and sew the pieces together in the order with which you are familiar. The instructions were bad a couple of years ago and now they are completely dreadful. The instructions for assembling the finished garment skip around explaining different versions of the garment; thereby confusing you and probably bringing on a migraine.