Refresher course on collars

Jun 23, 2010 8 Replies

Please help me remember. Back when I stitched nice clothes, the collar pattern had an upper collar and an under collar. I've forgotten much about the difference except that the under collar was a smidge smaller and maybe it was cut with a different straight of grain. I just tested ( Kate would call it making a muslin) a christening gown pattern. The collar piece is the same for both upper and under. I don't like the way it bucks up instead of quietly and smoothly turning down around the neckline. There shouldn't be much difference in the technique between a woman's collar and one for a size 8 pounds infant. I don't want to spend the time to make a gown where the collar looks like I was poking my hand through a paper plate. Ewww. Yuck. Phooey. Anybody else this fussy? and what have I forgotten? Polly



After sewing the under collar to the dress, did you clip the curves before you stitched the upper collar to the dress? That is all I can think of at the moment that might be doing it. Barbara in HOT SC

I did clip it, Barbara. Had to hold it up to the window to be sure but it IS clipped. Perhaps I could have been more ruthless about clipping though. In the Sew Beautiful and Creative Needle magazines there are usually a few garments with collars that seem to have a mind of their own. I think I'll try placing the under collar on a different bias / straight and see if that makes a difference. And HOT? The Yorkie is stretched out on the bathroom floor cooling his belly. It's a good place for a hot dog. Polly

"Bobbie Sews More" After sewing the under collar to the dress, did you clip the curves before

Hope your yorkie stays cool. My Newfoundland and the dauchund stay on the cooler kitchen floor. They are also blocking so I can't go outside without them knowing it! Barbara in 90 degree SC and it is only 11:00. Yesterday got up to 97 and so will today

Typically, you add 1/8" to the under collar on the outside edges to get the top collar pattern. Start at 0 at the front edge of the collar/neck edge intersection. And don't forget to walk the collar.

If it's a convertible type collar, look at:

formatting link
Kay

Thank you, Kay. I even found a walk the collar tutorial. Polly

"Kay Lancaster" <

Polly Esther > Please help me remember. Back when I stitched nice clothes, the collar

I usually cut the upper collar and the lower collar by the same pattern, then sew them together with the lower collar sticking out one-eighth of an inch at each end. I take care of the middle when I turn it right-side out, by making the raw edge of the under collar stick out more than the raw edge of the upper collar.

I think. I'll watch myself when I assemble the mandarin collar I cut out yesterday.

Thank you, Joy. It's hard for most I'd imagine to think in terms of size 8 lbs. The peter pan collar is hardly as big as a tablespoon. But . . . I'll give scooching in a wee 1/8 and see if if makes that tiny rascal hop in place instead of buckling. Polly

Yeah,

Maybe more so. I learned from David Coffin's "Shirtmaking" book & video, [and some coaching form a designer friend and the folks here] both of which can be found in your local library, and he does a much better explanaition than I ever could.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required