Sewing with Denim Fabric

Hello All,

Can anyone tell me how you judge the amount of ease to use when sewing pants with denim? I just made a pair that I tested in muslin before cutting the denim. The muslin pair fits great, but the denim stretches out after just an hour of wearing. Right now the fabric has stretched so much that the crotch point is a good 2 inches below my body and I can easily grab about 2 inches at the center back seam without causing any "cupping" in the front. The knees have stretched to the point where they just look silly. I did wash the fabric to shrink before using it and now I'm wondering if the answer to the problem is to make the pants to fit and then wash allowing the fabric to shrink. Thanks for your help.

SewFoolish

Reply to
sewfoolish
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Did you wash the muslin first? Did you wash the denim? Were you using stretch denim or cotton? This might be the answer to your question. Barbara in SC

Reply to
Bobbie Sews More

It's me again. Maybe you could check the pattern to see if it is for a stretch fabric or a woven fabric. This also would make a difference. Barbara in SC

Reply to
Bobbie Sews More

I don't know what the solution is, but for what it's worth, I've had the same experience with some purchased jeans. They'd come out of the dryer so tight I could barely get them zipped and a couple hours later I'd be swimming in them. These were 100% cotton denim.

I've got a couple of pairs of jeans now whose content includes 2% lycra, and have no such issues with them. I think the lycra content allows the fabric to resume its former shape after being stretched.

Reply to
Kathleen

Hi,

Thank you for such a quick response. I used pattern drafting software to create the pattern. It's made with .05" crotch ease and 1.5" hip ease. I'm NOT a small woman so it was a pleasant surprise to have the pattern fit. The muslin fabric was not washed prior to making the toile which I worn around the house all day to be sure it was fitting correctly. The denim is 100% cotton, and I washed it a couple of times in hot water to shrink. The denim pants fit great fresh out of the dryer, love them at that point. It's after wearing them for a short period of time that the fabric stretches out. These "jeans" are really basic pants. I made them with a slightly tappered leg, no pockets, a standard waistband, and a front zipper all of which will make altering them easy. Denim is my fabric fabric in ready-to-wear, but at my size well fitting pants are hard to fine. I'd like to make more pants in various denims. Is there a way to tell by looking at the bolt if the fabric will stretch when worn? The denim I just used feels like a tight weave. Not as firm as 100% cotton twill, but still tight. I expected it to shrink, not turn into clown pants after wearing. :-)

Thanks again for you help. Sewfoolish

Reply to
sewfoolish

Hello Kathleen,

I did buy some demin with 1% lyrca that I'm anxious to use, but have not because of this current problem. In my next pair I planned to add traditional jean styled front pockets and a back yoke, not so sure now. However, I can cut them, stitch them up with a simple zipper application in the front and then wear them around the house to see how much they stretch. Once I'm sure they are OK I can take them apart and add the other details. Sure like to avoid having to take the time to do all of that....

SewFoolish

Reply to
sewfoolish

100% cotton denim does this. If you want to keep that snug-out-of-the-dyer feel, use denim with a Lycra content. Lycra give the denim that magic 'recovery' ability to stay snugger. They don't stay *completely* tight, but it doesn't stretch and stay as baggy as normal denim.
Reply to
Kate XXXXXX

That sounds like a plan! I'll alter this pair and use the cotton / lyrica blend on the next pair. Thank you all for your help.

SewFoolish

Reply to
sewfoolish

I've never made any pants much less jeans, but I do buy them with the

4% lycra and they fit GREAT! The lycra does give them that 'bounce back' quality with no baggy knees, droopy seat, or long crotch. I've experienced all those exasperating fit problems with ready to wear pants, grrrrrrr. And the other nice thing about that touch of lycra is you don't feel like you are going to burst if you squat or bend over when wearing regular 100% cotton denim. A touch of stretch is wonderful!
Reply to
itsjoannotjoann

Have you noticed that men's jeans do not have this problem? At least my sons don't have the problem. The knees in their pants always stay nice yet they are 100% cotton. It must be in the construction. Oh well, cotton and lyrica it will be. Thanks for your help.

SewFoolish

Reply to
sewfoolish

when sewing

before

[snip]

Lycra give

don't

baggy as

and my DW says it is surprisingly more comfortable to wear than the %100 cotton denim as it gives a little when she moves so that inital tightness feeling is not there ???

robb

Reply to
robb

that

oops... did not read far enough someone already typed a similar comment iguess this just seconds the previous one

Reply to
robb

Lycra give

They don't

baggy as

with the

'bounce

crotch. I've

wear

lycra

bend

stretch is

least

stay

Oh

maybe many men do not do alot of bending in there jeans ?

howevere, i do and I have had this problem with relaxed cut jeans. I do not know about the long crotch 8| but certainly all the other troubles

robb

Reply to
robb

Y'kno, I thought I was imagining it, but yes, it happens to men's jeans too....

Reply to
Sparafucile

fitted as close to the body as women do. Other than a brief period of abe= rration in the early 1970's, they don't. It is a comfort issue. There are= anatomical demands for a certain amount of ease that women do not have to = deal with.

And thank heavens for that!

Rosefolly

my home; and little by

eau, 1889-1963

Reply to
Rosefolly

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