There was a discussion of the word "steeking" from February, in which it was stated that properly made kilts don't have the excess fabric (above/behind the steeking) cut out. (And which Google won't let me post a follow-up to.)
I just finished what I would call a "semi-traditional" kilt in a moderately heavy cotton (about twill weight, but not twill), and did not cut the fabric away. I will definitely do it the next time!
Sewing through something like 6 layers of cloth from the pleats, plus lining, plus waistband (2 sides) was like sewing through steel plate! Using a #100 (demin) needle, my machine (Bernett 410, whose motor is nowhere near as weak as everyone says it is) made a sound a little like automatic weapons fire as it punched through all that cloth.
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While we're on the topic of kilts, any tips on how to iron the thing? The fabric has a print which is in 2-inch wide bands, which dictates where the creases go on the lower part, and makes any misalignments painfully obvious.
At the waist, of course, the pleats get squeezed together, but this means it won't lay flat on the ironing board and makes it really hard to get the pleats straight while ironing.
-- AMM