$10,000 to start

Although I share your enthusiasm for the "big iron" and quality tooling, it does all depend on what you are doing. And in terms of a lathe, how big a piece you want to turn. There are some quality machines out there that cost less than a Oneway. Take some classes and observe some machines up close. Talk to the instructors.

Woodturners are a friendly lot and I am sure that they will let you try out their machines if ask (or bribe) nicely.

Although, a Oneway would be very, very nice...

What, did you win a lottery or something, or are you just bragging?

I'm sorry it came across that way.

Tom I have been turning for about 5 years now and I started out with less expensive tools just to make sure that I liked it. Not all cheap tools are cheap some of the tools that I bought 5 years ago I still have and still use on a regular basis. So far the turnings that I have sold I have barely broken even on but I do not turn for the profit but for the fun of it. As I have been able to I have purchased better tooling and some of this "better tooling" is not as good as my inexpensive tooling.

Thanks, Steven, for the comments. I'm listening.

May I ask you to be a little more specific on which tools were which? For instance, should the cutting tools be the ones with the best steel? Is the lathe actually not the most important? A DVR3000, for example, gives you VS electronically (super slow for out-of-balance, etc.) and can rotate to handle large bowls, yet costs about $1900.

I perceive the need for precision because I particularly love the thin walled work. That's why I budgeted for a laser system, too.

Tom Nie

some comments:

1. a good lathe is needed - size is the variable. you can use a mini (I used a nova comet) to turn items with transparent walls, but you can only do this with items up to about 3 inches in diameter, above that the lathe just can't handle it (not rigid enough). Eventually I bought a Stubby, and can turn about 44 inches (between centers) - you are right it's cheaper to buy once, but good quality mini-lathes are a whole lot less expensive than good quality "full sized" lathes.

1. you absolutely do not need a laser system to turn thin - but it is helpful if you wish to turn thin AND have a narrow top - but my opinion - thin is overrated - I can turn goblets with translucent walls pretty easily, and it's cool, but really thin is not good (in my opinion) for a bowl or many other items.

2. there is nothing wrong with carbon steel tools - you have to sharpen more often, but you get a better edge. Don't go on a tool buying binge, you won't need 85% of what you buy in the first year by the time you get to the

5th year. One or two excellent quality gouges, and a pile of lesser tools will do. Eschew fancy hollowing systems for a couple of years and make bowls, boxes and goblets.

1. get variable speed

2. you will need an air compressor, and some air tools, don't forget those.

So, you wanna know what turning is gonna cost you? $10,000? Yeah, that's a start, but doesn't take into account the addictive nature of woodturning and the never ending yearning for more/bigger/better tools and equipment.

To give you a better idea, consider what a week's supply of heroin would cost. Now, after a week on the stuff, you're hopelessly addicted. Now, consider the cost of the addiction for the rest of your life. :-)

Barry

Hmmmm. Quick figuring shows slightly over $5,500 in hardware, but I've got a spare lathe included in that.

What about the new all purpose studio?

I'm quick'stimating that I've spent about $2500-$3000 in the 4 years since getting my lathe, not including consumables or purchased woods. That includes the lathe, chuck, tools, chain saw, sharpening hardware, disk sander and bandsaw.

I'm about to take a huge leap in a lathe upgrade, but my midi/mini lathe has done very well as an inexpensive, hard wearing, introductory machine to learn on, test out my long-term turning interest and help define the direction my turning interests would head before purchasing a high-dollar lathe inappropriate to my needs.

Have to include those? What if you already had chain/band sander? Those would kick it up close to _ another _ two grand in acquisition cost. Hate to consider replacement, because it's well-said that "they don't make 'em like they used to."

Tom, After 7 plus years of turning, the basic formula that I came up with is; take the cost of the lathe, the accessories that go with it will be

2 to 4 times the cost of the lathe, or more, depending on the severity of your addiction. For size concerns, any bowl over about 16 inches in diameter is more of a specialty market. The Nova is a good medium lathe, as are the similar delta and jet models. The Powermatic 3520 is a good step up from that, and this is what I turn on. I don't know if the bigger Oneway performs any better than the PM, especially at twice the cost. There is an advantage in the swiveling and sliding heads in that they allow you to stand straight up. This posture can save a lot of strain on the back if you turn for more that an hour or so a day. As someone who turns mostly bowls, I can see a dedicated bowl lathe in my future, if I ever get wealthy. For now my PM performs all tasks well enough. robo hippy

George wrote:

"robo hippy" wrote

If your lathe is too low, can't you mount it to a platform of some kind?

Seems like a cheap, immediate solution.

I think he's referring to turning over the ways, where you pretty much have to be a right-hander, or do a bit of leaning if you're cutting with the magic bowl gouge grinds. Those of us who trim with spindle gouges do not have those problems, because the way we cut the tool merely extends our arm from rim to button.

I've spent more than that in the last year, not counting the 2nd lathe, chain saw, bandsaw, etc... lol By hardware, I guess that doesn't include chisels, accessories, sanding supplies, sharpening supplies, finishes, etc.??

mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Lee, The height of the lathe is one matter, while how you stand while working is another. If the lathe is at the proper height, and you have to bend or reach over the lathe to get the tools at the proper angle to cut properly (this is more of a problem with bowls and end grain/boxes than spindles) then this will put strain on your lower back. The 'Dunlaps disease is another matter (your belly dun laps over your belt). Shoulders should be parallel to hips, and back should be straight. Suck in your gut a little. robo hippy

Of course you don't have to buy a chain saw, band saw or sander if your turning interests don't require such tools. That's another reason to start small and work your way up to the tools you need as your interests develop. Also, how do you know the size of the tools to buy if you have no turning experience or direction developed yet?

But then again, the OP may have bottom-less pocketses.

From what I understand, the outboard end of the spindle is right-hand threaded just like the inboard side. Get the outboard bed or a floor tool stand, reverse the motor direction and turn outboard in a position similar to the PM or a dedicated bowl lathe.

There's a perceived direction. I'd love to do artsy-fartsy bowls and figures. After all this discussion I see attending that week class and hanging with some of that club's members as critical.

It looks like some of YOU guys are the bottom-less pocketses - LOL. Probably drive Prevost motor "coaches", too.

Difference between men and boys is the price of their toys. Ain't it the truth.

Tom Nie