BEST TOOL FOR HOLLOWING A TURNING?

A side cutting scraper works well for me when cleaning up the inside of a box or bowl.

Leslie

In the right hands, a properly sharpened small gouge and a small side scraper do the job perfectly well. I guess developing "the right hands" is the key. So far as I know, Turning Boxes With Richard Raffan is the most complete book on the subject. I was lucky enough to take a course with RR at the time he was finishing up the book and he did a lot of lidded box stuff during the week. A real treat to watch his "secret" gouge technique which can hollow a fist-sized box in fifteen seconds leaving just a bit of scraping to finish it -- hardly any sanding needed if the wood is cooperative. I'd recommend that one book and a lot of practice. If I can manage to learn it then anybody can...

If one is lefthanded , shouldn't the lathe turn the other way around????????? my Lathe can turn in both directions................

Greetz Hilco (holland)

"John McGaw" schreef in bericht news:sSkDb.19$ snipped-for-privacy@bignews6.bellsouth.net...

original reply snipped for brevity...

Every really good turner I've known or observed was ambidextrous while at the lathe. It is almost impossible for anyone working seriously at turning not to develop at least a bit of that ability in time. Besides, if you spin the lathe the "other" way there is always the real risk of the faceplate or chuck unscrewing itself from the headstock and flying across the room at the first minor catch.

Since I am not left-handed I don't really know. Some right-handed turners do like some turning operations with the lathe running in reverse primarily for ease of access to the cutting area. The caution is that if you are cutting with the lathe in reverse that you ensure the chuck, faceplate, .... is locked onto the spindle so it can't unscrew. The threads on lathes are such that when running in the normal direction, threaded accessories like faceplates tighten when cutting forces are applied. They will loosen when running in reverse other than for perhaps light sanding. Setscrews (grub screws) are typically used.

Billh

Try drilling 3/4 hole to almost the depth of the box. Use a 1/4" spindle gouge rolled over on its left side to hollow the box starting with the hole and hollowing towards the outside of the box. It helps if the gouge is razor sharp, too.

Barry

PS Richard Raffan's "back-hollowing" cut will drive you nuts trying to master it. I used to think it only worked "down under". The above technique is not as slick as Richard's, but works very well when you get the hang of it. Good luck.

Yes, its difficult to learn on your own. Took me awhile, but I finally got it. I did a hands-on demo at one of our club meetings on this technique. EVERYONE who tried it got it down-pat in less than 5 minutes. All it takes is someone literally holding your hand and guiding you thru the movements. One can listen to it explained, watch it on video (or even live), read about it.....nothing is as easy as having someone actually guide your hand/body thru the motions.

Peter Teubel Milford, MA

Ain't that the truth! It took me a while to get it down (the Raffan upside-down cut), and I wouldn't recommend it to a novice without Raffan's book or article in Fine Woodworking (can't remember which issue, but I have it and can look it up if needed--late 80's I think). Best would be a video, but I don't know if Raffan includes that cut in his videos. I have a short video clip of me doing it, it's a Quicktime file about 6 mb--pretty big--if anyone wants to see it, email me and I'll post it on my website. Taken with a Nikon Coolpix, only 10-15 seconds, and I couldn't figure out how to compress it to make it smaller. A good close-up view, just the work and the tool with shavings spewing out.

Soren Berger's tool might be just the right one, kind of a hook tool ground from round shaft that cuts on the pull stroke.

Ken Grunke

Hi Ken,

I would really like to see that clip on your website. Have a very high speed connection so that shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks John

I don't think ring tools aren't as good at getting a straight side. With the gouge, the non-cutting portion provides a reference to the previously cut side. Ring tools are great for trimming and refining the bottom and bottom/edge intersection.

I use a 1/2" detail gouge ground back about 3/4" to hollow. Don't need a center hole with a point on the end, as it plunge cuts like a spoon bit. Second big advantage to gouge hollowing is one you already mentioned, turn the nose up a bit, and the curls run down the flute of the gouge out of the way.

please check my page http// esarmiento.250x.com Im also a left handerand I turn boxes by the dozen no hassle send me a email to snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com

correct link below, nice turning bob

what is that black thing rubbing on the outside(on the right hand side)

To me it looks like the headstock motor belt on the backside of the headstock.

-Jim Gott- San Jose, CA

really? it seemed to be rubbing on the outside edge of the bowl.

It's a floppy drive--err, a floppy belt drive. Built-in safety measure, as long as I stay away from that end of the lathe. When I have a catch, the belt slips and sometimes even flies off the pulleys.

Only half kidding--it's just that I can't get the motor any closer to the spindle, so I need a long belt that flops quite a bit and the whole drive system is a cobbled-up mess that is in great need of improvement. In the works is a new treadmill motor, variable speed with new pulleys and a BELT GUARD.

I hadn't gone back to this thread in the newsgroup until today, just thought I'd clear up the mystery!

Ken Grunke