OK, so I've hit a problem that my limmited turning experience doesn't cover...... I'm turning some bowls, but they're chucked up weitrd - the grain runs paralel to the bed (like spindle turning). I'm havinga horrible time hollowing them out - lots of chatter and tear out. I've tried my normal bowl gauges, and they're not too good. I've tried scrapers, and they're pretty rough too. Best thing I've found so far is a big honking timber framing chisel that works pretty good as a scraper, but its slow, and really tough to control (cutting edge is about 2" wide....). Is the answer big heavy scrapers, or is there some other too that works well?
Alternative to a hook or ring tool - right angle gouge, really - is a gouge with nearly vertical edges.
I grind a pointed gouge, though a fingernail spindle will do as well. You start center outward, catching the curl gently with the left edge of the gouge, nose up gently for shaving fall, then sweep to the outside. If you've got a pointed, you can also sweep back to the center easily. With a fingernail, it's more difficult, so you're advised to start again at center.
Other alternatives are small section scrapers, where a minimum amount of tool is in contact at any time. Things like hollowing tools are made this way. They also have scrapers which can be angled to bridge ridging and clean up the interior.
Hi JD, Here's some generalities re cutting end grain that aren't always true.
Cut transversely across the end grain instead of longitudinally. Downhill direction outside is reversed inside, so inside the bowl cut from center to periphery and on the inside walls from bottom to top. _In general!
Heavy scrapers are best because scrapers have no bevel to support them.
You can get bevel support from a shallow gouge by grinding a steep bevel on the end and up the sides. Something like a swept-back dished scraper. What! Sweeping a transverse arc from center out, flute leading is sort of a left handed 'Raffin cut' and quite efficient. Fix the pivot-fulcrum _firmly on the tool rest.
Inserted bit scrapers can cut as well as scrape. They can be store bought, but are easily and cheaply shop made.
Much end grain is tooled far from the tool rest. A long robust handle helps to gentle the scrapes and cuts.
Using the tail center as long as possible keeps the blank secure and concentric. Leave a thin inside tenon as an extended tail center in deep bowls.
The sweet-spot approach comes into play more on tooling end grain than other work. Gently find it at low speed, but don't mess about, sweep don't ratchet.
Like oil on troubled waters, a litle water, oil or soft wax will often smooth your way.
I guess end grain is end grain whether in a box, bowl, hollow form or tall vase, but is there a '"one best tool and way" to turn it? If so, I reckon we would all be using it.
End grain is the most unkind cut of all and most honest turners have run into an end grain problem that tooling alone can't fix, no matter how much advice they've digested on rcw.
When it comes to solving every problem with yet another turning tool, think twice and buy once.
Thus the edge is a right angles to the edge on a normal gouge.>> Hooked tools and the type Woodcut sells, which has a depth limiter, are all> pretty much the same in principle. They get the edge sideways, so it can> cut through the fibers the way they wish to be cut.>
OK - I make a lot of end grain bowls - mostly from off cuts and scraps - but I make about 4 a week.
They are pretty fun - once you get the hang of presenting the bowl gouge to the work.
It all has to do with the bevel and flute aspect.
To begin, turn your gouge so it is almost parrallel with the face of the bowl. Spin the flute so it is pointed directly at the center of the end of the bowl Now when you look at the point of the gouge it is a small point that should be presented to the wood at roughly 90 degrees. to begin - slowly push the gouge into the bowl where you want the interrior wall to begin - at the thickness that you want the bowl to be when completed. Now start slowly, making sure that you engage the bevel once the tool gets a bite into the bowl. As soon as possible begin to turn the flute so it is facing toward the top of the center point of the bowl. Keeping the bevel engaged and rubbing, make your cuts shallow at first then deeper - never really having to go back out to the lip ever again - take small bites and go from edge to center with the flute being rotated from 90 degrees at entry then up to about 40 degrees along the wall of the bowl and then back to about 80 degrees when the gouge is close to the center point - this rotation will keep the bevel engaged and allow the cut to be made across the entire wall of the bowl without chatter and without tearing. After the bowl is reasonably shaped, get a heavy scraper and pull it across the wall from center to rim - witht elathe spinning at about 300 rpm. Make sure youhave the scraper sharpened and a burr turned up on the edge - this will result in a bowl with very little need for sanding.
If you have any questions - print this and take it to the lathe with you and go thru the motions with the lathe of first. If after that you still can not make it work, keep trying. Once you get this, all other bowls are a cinch.
Any questions, reply here and I will try again.
Ray
"j.duprie" wrote in message news:cpa0m1$9b4$ snipped-for-privacy@tabloid.unh.edu...
It's the way I remind myself of proper use. It lacks the secondary clearance a gouge has when you grind back the wings, so maintaining a proper skew angle is more important, or you can dig in. The termite has two bevel angles to help you in tighter spots where the one may have a difficult time getting purchase.
I've done some large end-grain pieces of platter to bowl type in spalted wood, and had other turners ask how I keep them from pecking out. I showed one who stopped by how far I had to lean over the lathe to use my spindle gouge from center to edge, but I feel I have better control over the gouge than even a Termite.
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